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joeforte


Nov 5, 2008, 7:22 PM
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Jumbo Love details
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I'm just trying to figure out how Chris worked this thing...from an article in climbing mag.

So the article says it's 250 feet long.
Chris describes being 300 feet off the deck.
It also says he used an 80m rope (262 ft.)

To me it sounds like if he fell off anywhere past the middle of the route, he would not be able to be lowered (262/2=131ft). I guess he could bump back up, and hope to make it to the anchors eventually, where he could have a second rope to rap off.

Otherwise it seems like it would require a 500 foot rope to work a 250ft. route to it's end, unless you did not fall, and kept a second rope at the anchor.

So does anyone know the details?


Partner angry


Nov 5, 2008, 7:44 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Jumbo Love details [In reply to]
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According to Maxim ropes ads, he took 100ft whippers on it too. So no, he wasn't bumping up 100'.

I doubt he was carrying prussicks or ascenders.

Hmmm, do you think maybe he pulled the core fibers out of his rope to get that extra distance down?


Partner angry


Nov 5, 2008, 7:45 PM
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I did hear that when he finished it, he topped it out, untied his rope, and walked off.


coolcat83


Nov 5, 2008, 7:51 PM
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angry wrote:
I did hear that when he finished it, he topped it out, untied his rope, and walked off.

Why rap if you have a walkoff? smart. doesn't mean the rope was too short for a lower


Deibold


Nov 5, 2008, 7:55 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Jumbo Love details [In reply to]
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He did indeed walk off when he sent.
He is Chris Sharma after all, Im sure he had a (or a few) rope(s) cut just for him to work the line that was plenty long enough to lower him when he was taking 100 footers.
If I were Blue Water ropes and I sponsored one of the best climbers in the world, I would make sure to send him whatever he needed to make the greatest and latest ascents on my product.
PS props to him for pushing the sport that much farther


hafilax


Nov 5, 2008, 7:59 PM
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Aren't there 2 anchors in the middle of it? I thought the original vision and bolting saw it as a 3 pitch climb.

If it is 45deg and the ground under it is level you'd need (route length)*(1+1/sqrt(2)) to get down plus rope stretch.

I'm curious now too.


rtwilli4


Nov 5, 2008, 8:14 PM
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Re: [Deibold] Jumbo Love details [In reply to]
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Deibold wrote:
He did indeed walk off when he sent.
He is Chris Sharma after all, Im sure he had a (or a few) rope(s) cut just for him to work the line that was plenty long enough to lower him when he was taking 100 footers.
If I were Blue Water ropes and I sponsored one of the best climbers in the world, I would make sure to send him whatever he needed to make the greatest and latest ascents on my product.
PS props to him for pushing the sport that much farther

I heard he had a "custom rope" cut so it must have been however many hundred feet he needed. Bluewater, however, must not have been so great because he is now with Sterling :)


carabiner96


Nov 5, 2008, 8:20 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
Bluewater, however, must not have been so great because he is now with Sterling :)

I'm sure he just goes with whoever has the deepest pockets...wouldn't you?


joeforte


Nov 5, 2008, 8:39 PM
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The rope was supposedly 80m, which is a length anyone can buy. 80m (262ft.) would only leave 32 feet of rope left to lower, if he were on a bolt 20 feet from the anchors. Unless a hill comes up behind him, which is doubtful (think "300 feet off the deck" quote). Seems like an 80m rope would be just enough rope, as long as you planed on sending, and walking off. Otherwise, I think you'd have to climb on thin doubles or a spool (500ft+?) for the ability to bail/lower.

All I see in the pics is a lone extra quickdraw on his harness. Think maybe he jumared the rope with his shoelaces? ...Doh, velcro... Hmm?


rtwilli4


Nov 5, 2008, 8:49 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] Jumbo Love details [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
Bluewater, however, must not have been so great because he is now with Sterling :)

I'm sure he just goes with whoever has the deepest pockets...wouldn't you?

I guess so... I really don't follow the pros so much but got the chance to talk to Chris a few weeks ago. He didn't mention anything about the change.

As for the rope... he was taking huge falls from pretty high on the route. The crux was above the half way point. I just don't see how an 80m rope would have done the job.

 

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