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jt512
Dec 13, 2008, 11:00 PM
Post #51 of 54
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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markanite wrote: The only response that I don't agree with is people who believe that “we shouldn't test gear” or that climbing gear is so incredibly complex that it is untestable.
No one has said either of those things. In fact, several people, including me, have pointed you to examples of well-designed tests that have been conducted.
In reply to: ...it isn't realistic to do a multi-million dollar test in a niche market.
It isn't necessary to spend millions of dollars to test the strength of climbing gear, just as it doesn't take a "Ph.D. in climbing" to be able to understand two performance criteria of a belay device. Your habit of justifying your methodology by exaggerating the difficulty of the alternative is annoying.
In reply to: I'm not arguing my tests are the leading authority by any means...
They're not an authority at all. They are flat-out wrong.
In reply to: The climbing community is one of the most intelligent communities...
Well, I suppose more intelligent than some communities. Say, for instance, the monster truck racing community.
In reply to: As Mal said: “Any data we can get on belay devices is good”.
Any valid data we can get on belay devices is good. Invalid data is worse than no data at all, which is why at least some of us are hoping you will take your data off your web site.
Jay
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JimTitt
Dec 14, 2008, 6:54 PM
Post #52 of 54
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002
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As jt515 accurately points out and Mal has shown in his admirable test (any test involving beer is admirable) there are many easy ways to test and get meaningful results.
The test system I used related to another project but including belay plates would have cost ca $500 if I had not already had the equipment.
To develop meaningful standards is a completely different thing as should be clear from my previous post.
Perhaps you should read the wise words of rgold and jt515 again, apart perhaps from my possibly disagreeing about the relative intelligence of Monster Truck racers they both have hit the nail on the head.
Publishing a report which is completely wrong is neither helping the climbing community or the reputation of your own company.
As has been pointed out elsewhere, your tests are attatched to a commercial website and most of us would see some financial interest there, a lot of the advice you have received would normally be billable, and in my case the bill would already in the $2,000 range. In the wider interest of the climbing community I have provided this for nothing to prevent anyone taking your test seriously.
If someone else with no commercial interest would like to perform some tests then I would be willing to provide a lot more information for no cost, for companies normal commercial rates apply.
I can only recommend again that you read the previous post from rgold and consider his words very carefully.
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churningindawake
Dec 14, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #53 of 54
(1692 views)
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Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 5292
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Maybe try one using peoples thoughts?
(This post was edited by churningindawake on Dec 20, 2008, 3:08 AM)
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