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Forums:
Climbing Information:
The Lab:
Belay Device Friction Tests:
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markanite
Dec 9, 2008, 8:32 PM
Views: 17946
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 282
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So last weekend I purchased the top 12 belay devices on the market and measured the friction of each device while locking-off and feeding. Each device was measured using 8,10 and 11mm ropes (10 tests per diameter and then the results were averaged; 720 tests total).
The full results are available here:
http://www.spadout.com/...evice-friction-test/
I'd especially encourage RC.com readers to look at the raw data near the bottom because the numbers on the top are calculated for beginners (who need a high friction lock-off and don't need a fast feed rate).
I'd love to hear your guys feedback on this (both positive and negative). Are there any additional tests you would be interested in (for belay devices)? Any ideas how we can incorporate dual friction modes (currently the high friction mode was used if the device was dual friction) or auto-blocking features into the test without making it subjective?
Thanks,
Mark
(This post was edited by markanite on Dec 9, 2008, 8:33 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by markanite
() on Dec 9, 2008, 8:33 PM
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Post edited by markanite
() on Dec 9, 2008, 8:33 PM
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