Review by: sandstone, 2004-07-02
Seems to be a decent shoe for long moderate routes, or when you want to wear the shoe for a approach-climb-descent, without having to take along another pair of shoes.
The shoe is a compromise, it's not as precise as a full-on climbing shoe, and it's no where near as comfortable as a pair of tennis shoes. In the shoe continuum I'd say it's placed between an approach shoe and a climbing shoe.
It edges well (inside edge of big toe), and smears OK. It doesn't feel that great for pockets or "edging" with the front tip of the shoe. They should be fine for jamming (but I haven't tried that yet with this shoe).
It's not the kind of shoe you want to fit tightly for precision climbing -- this shoe is aimed at a different use. I sized mine so they are very comfortable (toes not smashed) with an athletic sock.
The lacing system has the capability of pulling the heel of the shoe towards the toe a bit, effectively making whole the shoe fit tighter. The downside is that the lacing system (or just how the leather is cut?) seems to put some pressure points on the top of the foot. That's why I decided to size these comfortably so I could wear them with a sock.