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Master Cam
| Manufacturer: | Metolius | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Description
With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why add a single-stem cam to their line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Each individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cams wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCUs narrow head widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. Metolius set out to make the finest single-stem unit we possibly could and the Master Cam is the result. The Master Cam combines a nice, flexy cable with an ultra-narrow head for hard aid or free climbing. Since they invented the CNC milled cam-stop, they naturally applied them to Master Cams. They also joined their silky-smooth trigger assembly with an ergonomic thumb piece to provide precise control over placement and retraction. The longer body affords additional reach when top-stepping or stretching for that hard-to-get placement. The Range Finder system also provides critical placement feedback for those who need it. Master Cams are hand-built right here in Metolius Bend, Oregon shop. Each one is thoroughly inspected and every unit is tested to 5 kN. Master Cams are CE and UIAA certified. Features: A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing Molded thumb piece 13 mm Monster slings webbing 36 Dyneema/64 nylon Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if youve chosen the right size cam for the placement. Greater Holding Power Optimized cam angle for more outward force Machined cam stops Color-coded sewn slings and tubing CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams 7075 T-6 aluminum CE/UIAA certified Sizes 00-6
Submitted by: gothcopter on 2008-03-19 | Last Modified: 2008-04-06 | Views: 1209
Editors Review
Metolius Master Cam Editiorial Review
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Vegastradguy racks up and heads out into the desert to see how Metolius' new cam stacks up against the competition.
Views: 6832 | Submitted by vegastradguy on 2008-04-06
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9 Reviews
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They have a place on my rack
Review by: bkalaska, 2009-07-08
My rating: 4.5- I sold my TCUs and got the blue, yellow and orange at a great price. My favorite cams and size are the yellow and red aliens and they overlap nicely. My main reason for not liking TCUs is that I never had an orange or red TCU placement that I was as happy with as other gear in the same size. The mastercams (in the blue to orange size) are far superior to the TCUs in my opinion. The place well, are flexible enough, and clean easily. They don't have the range of aliens though. Bottom Line: If I can get away with two aliens I take them, but if I may want an extra piece for an anchor I have been taking the masters, and if I need doubles I am happy to have both.
GOOD, AS LONG AS YOU REMEMBER THEY'RE NOT ALIENS.
Review by: ArcadiaRockClimbing, 2009-07-02
I bought the "new aliens" when they came out. All I've read about is how the Master Cam isn't an Alien. I've also been reading about how people have concerns with the trigger wires in horizontals.
Having climbed in the Sierras, Yosemite, Smith, and Indian Creek since I bought them. In horizontal cracks they are great, I fell 30 feet or so and was able to easily remove it. Finding almost no damage to the lobes. For those of you worrying about the trigger cables in horizontals, don't worry. When you fall the trigger cable assembly rotates to the side. Leaving the Cables unharmed.
I also own aliens, and yes they look alike but they are not the same. I've used them side by side and they're are many differences. Good and Bad. The flexibility isn't all that good but still better than the C4's or Friends. The biggest problem I have found has been that to remove them you have to pull the trigger half of the way back otherwise they get stuck. Kind of a pain but hey it works.
Bottom Line: The Master Cam is Great. But don't expect them to preform like Aliens.
Having climbed in the Sierras, Yosemite, Smith, and Indian Creek since I bought them. In horizontal cracks they are great, I fell 30 feet or so and was able to easily remove it. Finding almost no damage to the lobes. For those of you worrying about the trigger cables in horizontals, don't worry. When you fall the trigger cable assembly rotates to the side. Leaving the Cables unharmed.
I also own aliens, and yes they look alike but they are not the same. I've used them side by side and they're are many differences. Good and Bad. The flexibility isn't all that good but still better than the C4's or Friends. The biggest problem I have found has been that to remove them you have to pull the trigger half of the way back otherwise they get stuck. Kind of a pain but hey it works.
Bottom Line: The Master Cam is Great. But don't expect them to preform like Aliens.
Hit and miss
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2009-04-02
Eh. Like the design, sorta, but they make more compromises than I like. The cam lobes on the smallest sizes are too thin. I'd like more contact with the rock. The wires run parallel to the cable stem, connecting the Kevlar cables to the trigger bars (and mimicking the Aliens' sheath), are a poor design choice for horizontals. A hard fall onto a horizontal placement will kink one of those cables. Metolius manufacturing is spot on, of course. Things seem rugged, but I'll stick to my TCUs, Aliens and C3s for the most part. Kinda like the 0 and 00 sizes, but these aren't that good for funky placements. Lots of those in NC quartzite. Bigger sizes look good, but I've got Friends and Camalots for those.
Total Bummer for aiding and tricky placements
Review by: Gaia_Mind, 2008-11-28
Overall, they are Ok, but important to know limitations...
During a solo of the Prow V 5.6 C2+, I had a master cam blow
Later on I realized the fault. The placement was directionalized upwards, and when I put my weight onto the piece, the stem bent and it released the lobes. The piece didn't pull because it was a bad placement, it blew because when you bend the stem of a mastercam, the "wires" which attach the lobes of the cam to the trigger come taught and release the upper lobes. This causes the placement to rotate and perhaps pull. Grab one in a store and see for yourself.
****This also happens in horizontal placements.
A true design flaw. But then again, if you are looking to free climb and you aren't going to place these in horizontal cracks, they are mostly bomber. The metal is hard and woln't wear out quickly like aliens, which is nice if you are freeing, good and bad if you are into aid. Like aliens, the flexible stem can get in places that a C3 may not.
If you don't trust CCH/aliens, they are an alternative if you want the flexible stem. I still prefer the rigid C3s for freeclimbing.
During a solo of the Prow V 5.6 C2+, I had a master cam blow
Later on I realized the fault. The placement was directionalized upwards, and when I put my weight onto the piece, the stem bent and it released the lobes. The piece didn't pull because it was a bad placement, it blew because when you bend the stem of a mastercam, the "wires" which attach the lobes of the cam to the trigger come taught and release the upper lobes. This causes the placement to rotate and perhaps pull. Grab one in a store and see for yourself.
****This also happens in horizontal placements.
A true design flaw. But then again, if you are looking to free climb and you aren't going to place these in horizontal cracks, they are mostly bomber. The metal is hard and woln't wear out quickly like aliens, which is nice if you are freeing, good and bad if you are into aid. Like aliens, the flexible stem can get in places that a C3 may not.
If you don't trust CCH/aliens, they are an alternative if you want the flexible stem. I still prefer the rigid C3s for freeclimbing.
Unsure about these cams
Review by: cnealey, 2008-11-02
I have no question about the structural integrity of this piece. I do have some concerns about "the little things" however. The trigger wires are, in my opinion, foolishly made of Kevlar. This will of course not lead to a cam failing, but it may lead to the inability to get my piece back. The Kevlar itself would probably survive, but it's the connection between the Kevlar and the lobe that doesn't sit right with me. It seems wimpy and i don't understand why Metolius didn't just go with cables. My second complaint is with the overall structure of the trigger mechanism. In a horizontal placement the cam sits in a funny position that is probably fine, but not present in other cams. I would have placed the trigger stems 90 degrees from their current orientation in order to facilitate better horizontal placement. Go to your local gear shop yourself and check these things out. I actually returned mine after owning them for a few months. I don't know of anyone breaking a trigger wire and I don't know of the trigger stems causing any problems in horizontal placements. However, the fact is there are cams out there that don't have these problems. I like my BD's and I'll keep plugging them away. If Metolius comes out with a second generation of these and the aforementioned problems are fixed, I will own a set... or two. Look at them yourself, and make your own decision. They're your cams and its your send.
