ATC-Guide popular
| Manufacturer: | Black Diamond Equipment | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Description
- High Friction Mode for greater control and holding power
- Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling
- In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls & has lowering capabilities
- Unique release point built into the unit
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-01-03 | Last Modified: 2009-06-19 | Views: 9294
50 Reviews
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ATC-Guide
Review by: ajkclay, 2009-07-15
Overall I like the features of the atc-guide, however I'm aware these are not unique to the BD product.
I've decided not to discuss the features as such, but pro's and cons of what I've found:
Pro's. It's not heavy, sure it is a little heavier than atc style devices without the autoblock feature, but it's not really an issue. Friction side works very well. Low friction side is good for long raps on two ropes.
Cons: It sticks when feeding quick or using thicker ropes on lead or bringing up a second; in fact on a recent trip using a Mammut Flash I found it near impossible to belay on autoblock. By the end of a two day trip with 340m of climbing, which is not much really, I was over it. By contrast, using my Beal edlinger was no problem at all. I'm unsure whether this was a function of rope brand or diameter, but it's a consideration.
Would I buy one again? If it was the only one of its type yes. But if I had to replace it I'd consider the Reverso.
I've decided not to discuss the features as such, but pro's and cons of what I've found:
Pro's. It's not heavy, sure it is a little heavier than atc style devices without the autoblock feature, but it's not really an issue. Friction side works very well. Low friction side is good for long raps on two ropes.
Cons: It sticks when feeding quick or using thicker ropes on lead or bringing up a second; in fact on a recent trip using a Mammut Flash I found it near impossible to belay on autoblock. By the end of a two day trip with 340m of climbing, which is not much really, I was over it. By contrast, using my Beal edlinger was no problem at all. I'm unsure whether this was a function of rope brand or diameter, but it's a consideration.
Would I buy one again? If it was the only one of its type yes. But if I had to replace it I'd consider the Reverso.
Excellent
Review by: PatMcGinn, 2009-06-21
Feeds well, works well with seconds, the autoblock feature takes all the hassle out of a redirect and works well into the anchor.
ATC-Guide
Review by: le_petit_maniac, 2009-06-18
I've been pretty happy with the device however I find it's not an easy feed when belaying a second. Also snags a wee bit when belaying on larger ropes. Smooth as butter on doubles though!
About as easy as flipping on the light
Review by: skitzboy, 2009-06-08
The Atc-guide is great. I use both the regular friction side and the high friction side. I like using the high friction side as it take nearly no pressure to catch a fall. I use the low friction for rappeling,in the gym when belaying and on shorter single pitch sport routes. I use the high friction when belaying longer routes and multiple pitches or if I feel the likely hood of a fall is eminent on a certain route ( a little harder route then the person I am belaying might be up to). a little heavy when compared to some others but if you like better quality gear and dont cut your toothbrush in half this is a non-issue
Great belay device
Review by: cruzinsouthoc, 2009-06-01
I have used this device since it came out and I really like it. I had both this and the original Reverso on my harness when doing multi pitch (always have 2 in case I drop one like a dummy). I eventually made this my primary and the Reverso my backup. I felt that it autoblocked well when I had one or two climbers following and I could pull rope pretty easily for my second. I always like the fact that it didn't have any square edges like the Reverso did - that always bothered me.
I have rapped with this and it was smooth enough for me. Belaying in normal mode was just as easy to me as the regular ATC.
Overall, no complaints and I can't think of any issues I have with it
I have rapped with this and it was smooth enough for me. Belaying in normal mode was just as easy to me as the regular ATC.
Overall, no complaints and I can't think of any issues I have with it





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