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ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device popular

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Item Details | Reviews (52)
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ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device
Manufacturer: Black Diamond Equipment

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Description

- High Friction Mode for greater control and holding power

- Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling

- In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls & has lowering capabilities

- Unique release point built into the unit


52 Reviews

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Wonderful Device! 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: secander, 2011-05-19


Simple and effective. I use this devise for everything. It's only drawbacks are its weight and the potential problems which can arise while using the auto-block with half-ropes (both necessary evils).

best belay device 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: climb_welsford, 2010-11-21


This is the best belay device on the market, hands down.

Note that it can be a bit difficult to belay a second in autolock mode with a fat rope but the same is true for all belay devices.

ATC-Guide 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajkclay, 2009-07-15


Overall I like the features of the atc-guide, however I'm aware these are not unique to the BD product.

I've decided not to discuss the features as such, but pro's and cons of what I've found:

Pro's. It's not heavy, sure it is a little heavier than atc style devices without the autoblock feature, but it's not really an issue. Friction side works very well. Low friction side is good for long raps on two ropes.

Cons: It sticks when feeding quick or using thicker ropes on lead or bringing up a second; in fact on a recent trip using a Mammut Flash I found it near impossible to belay on autoblock. By the end of a two day trip with 340m of climbing, which is not much really, I was over it. By contrast, using my Beal edlinger was no problem at all. I'm unsure whether this was a function of rope brand or diameter, but it's a consideration.

Would I buy one again? If it was the only one of its type yes. But if I had to replace it I'd consider the Reverso.

Excellent 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: PatMcGinn, 2009-06-21


Feeds well, works well with seconds, the autoblock feature takes all the hassle out of a redirect and works well into the anchor.

ATC-Guide 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: le_petit_maniac, 2009-06-18


I've been pretty happy with the device however I find it's not an easy feed when belaying a second. Also snags a wee bit when belaying on larger ropes. Smooth as butter on doubles though!

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