Review by: Papolap19, 2008-10-12
I did some research on this product before i bought it. The engineering is impeccable. There is a four-way fail-safe design- meaning, up to four parts can break on the device and it will still catch a fall. If something does break (which i can't even conjure a situation that it would) it automatically locks itself so you can't climb on it anymore. This way you're never wondering if somethings broken. It's also pioneered with similar technology to a seat belt (and we know those don't fail). Torque is what causes a lock off.
It does take some getting used to and some baby sitting at first, but once you know how to use it, it's leagues above any other self belay device. Clove hitching 10 foot loops to your harness helps with the weight of the rope. Instead of trying to drag the rope through the device while most of it is on the ground, it's closer to your hips so you aren't pulling that weight. It's a little confusing at first, but the loops are definitely worth the effort.
If you're leading, you'll want to go a few levels down while you're learning the device. You have to make clips at the level of the device unless you have a position that allows use of one or both hands to pull slack through it. You also have to pay attention to the loops you make and unclip them when they run out. You also have to stop and make more once you've run out.
It's a bit tricky at first, but again, very worth it. I figured it out by reading the instruction manual and hoping on a climb. I did a 5.4 G and did just fine (i've only been leading for about 3 months).