Review by: freeskicolorado, 2005-08-18
As a new trad leader, these were my first set of cams. Keep in mind that I'm writing this as a n00b. I've also had some limited experience with Metolius Power Cams and TCU's to compare with.I've found these cams to work very well for me. Though I have not taken a lead fall on one, I've placed them in TR anchors and yanked on them to kingdom come to test them, and have no doubts in their ability to stop a fall. Climbing in the Gunks, I deal mostly with horizontal placements, which these work great in. The action is consistently smooth, something I noticed was not true of all brands when shopping for cams. They are easy to place and clean. Furthermore, they are [i]light[/i] and reasonably priced, especially when you consider each one comes with a keynose biner. The anodizing makes it easy to quickly find the size you're looking for. I have 00-4 and have not felt like I needed an in between size.Cons: no loop, and no doubled sling. Occasionally, I find that the best placement would result in the clipping/extending biner would be loaded over an edge. Without a loop or a doubled sling, you have no choice but to find another placement or leave the biner in a compromised position in these situations. Also, in the smaller sizes (say, the smallest 3 or 4), I sometimes find the heads are too wide for the placements offered. This problem would be dependant upon where you climb; it may not be a problem at all in many areas.