Review by: slablizard, 2007-10-23
I was looking for a pair of approach shoes and I am a big fan of La Sportiva, so I got a pair for $90.
I sized them a bit snug, since I wanted to climb with them after the approach, that has been good for climbing, not so good for comfort.
The design is typical of a climbing shoe, apart the obvious "Mythos" lace up system and the shape, they are much thinner than any other approach shoe, they stick very well on any type of rock, dry or wet, are fairly comfortable for the hike up and for climbing (up to 10d so far) less comfortable for the hike down. Your feet are swollen and "tired" from a day of climbing, the shape and design of the shoe offers little grip for the foot inside the shoe that wil push against the end of the shoe. I will try using intersoles.
The small shape of the sole offers great grip on dirt downhill, sometimes too much, lacking any sort of "shock absorbing material" your knee will pay the price of the shoe getting a firm grip on anything.
But try them for climbing moderates...they will feel like super comfy climbing shoes, with enough grip, edging and smear power to take you up hard 10s or easy bouldering sessions.
A very good techincal shoe, if you don't mind carry another pair of comfy sneakers for the drive back...or size them bigger than I did and loose a bit of the climbing performance.