Good beginner shoes
Review by: ferox, 2009-02-17
[How long have I had them?]
Well, I've had them for 5 years now, but have only climbed in them for about 10 months to date. Yes, there was a big pause when I stop climbing for a few years.
[Quality, Durability & Fit]
The quality on these shoes are excellent. They feel well made and I've no complains on these shoes. Fit wise, I got them tight out of the box and until now, they have stretched to a snug, comfortable fit. Durability on these have also been excellent as I've not seen much sign of wear. The blue dye will turn your feet blue for a while.
I have been climbing about mid 5.10s most of the time in the gym and occasionally outdoors on limestone, both on lead and top rope, from slabs and verticals to overhung routes. Have also tried bouldering a little. They edge good on small holds but the drawback to these shoes are that because it's so stiff, you will not be able to feel what you are stepping on. Smearing is mediocre with the hard rubber. On overhung routes, these shoes aren't sensitive nor aggressive enough to perform well. They are top notch in cracks however. Heel hooks okay, toe hooks not so good. The lace allows me to dial my fit according to the performance I'm looking for.
If you're just starting out and learning footwork, these shoes are great and will last forever. They are also excellent for all day comfort and crack climbing. For me, I'm looking to retire this shoe to my gym/warm-up shoe and upgrade to either something more sensitive like the Evolv Defy or edgier like the Evolv Pontas or similar shoes.