Review by: ikellen, 2004-10-25
The good: These shoes are comfy, and they smear decently (after two blank 5.10 slabs at tahquitz, im pretty sure of this).
The bad: Even though they look like they would, these shoes can't edge for SHIT! Stuff that would be no problem in my Cobras was impossible in these. They also aren't sensitive at all. The soles are just too thick. The fancy heel tread doesnt really offer any benefits besides making the sensitivity problem worse. The heel strap, when tightened down, causes the back of the shoes to clench against your achilles tendon, and it didnt make the shoe any tighter on my foot. The laces hurt my foot when I tucked them in the tongue, and if I didnt, I stepped on the laces while climbing. Along with all of this, the shoes are pretty heavy for a climbing shoe, atleast compared to the other shoes I own (Sportiva's, Mad Rocks).
Overall, I guess they would be good beginner shoes (first shoes), but you probably need a wide foot for them to edge decently, and I wouldn't reccomend trying your latest dime edge route in them.