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Demorto

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Item Details | Reviews (8)
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Demorto
Manufacturer: Evolv

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Description

From the EVOLV website:

"The DEMORTO is hands down the best Symmetrical toe profile performance shoe on the market. We created the DEMORTO based on the requests from climbers who desired a symmetrical toe profile high performance shoe but were frustrated that almost all of the symmetrical shoes currently available were entry level shoes. Anyone with Morton’s foot (longer 2nd toe) or climbers who prefer a more symmetrical toe box will love this shoe. The molded TRAX XF-3 outsole was engineered to have variable thickness gradients of the sole to conform to the foot and provide perfect anatomical support and sensitivity where needed. The molded sole is thinner in the arch section for better arch fit and ridged and thicker in the heel section for mild cushioning and the full length midsole underneath enhances edging power.

MODEL BETA

*PROFILE Symmetrical toe profile (KSA-1 last)
*SOLE 4.2 mm TRAX® XF-3 high friction rubber outsole with thickness gradients
*RAND 2.2mm TRAX® duro-rand
*UPPER Synthratek synthetic upper with leather trim
*LINING Microfiber lining
*MIDSOLE MX-2 2mm stiff full-length midsole
*SIZES 5 to 13.5 US men, including half sizes


CUSTOM OPTIONS
1. Split Sizing $30


Editors Review

Evolv Demorto Editorial Review

Evolv Demorto Editorial Review Editorial review of the Evolv Demorto climbing shoe.

Views: 10926 | Submitted by vegastradguy on 2006-11-23

8 Reviews

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Great shoe 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: cruzinsouthoc, 2009-06-01


I have used these for several years now on rock and in the gym. I'm so grateful that somebody made a shoe for people with Morton's toe...I jumped on this when it came out.

this shoe is nice and light and I feel like I can do some intricate footwork with them. No stretch due to synthetic upper so unlike other shoes I've owned with a symmetrical profile, these still fit like they did when I bought them.

Great performance shoe. My only complaint is that the tongue on mine isn't quite wide enough to keep the laces from contacting the top of my foot unless I really try to keep it centered perfectly as I lace up.

The NEW Demorto! 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: suilenroc, 2009-03-26


I've been climbing in Evolv shoe's for over 3 years now and I have to admit these are by far the best I have worn. Having Morton's toe, I've always had a problems with wearing tight shoes. Normally I'd wear a size 10 or 10.5 Evolv shoe, well with the Demorto's I am now wearing a size 9! Because of the symmetrical toe I am able to get a snugger fit which not only helps me edge but the heel fits better too. The new Demorto is made with leather instead of synthetic which is a nice touch that allows a more form fitting fit. In addition to just fitting great the shoe preforms wonderfully at toe jams and foot jams. I would highly recommend these shoes to anyone that has morton's toe or is just looking for a versatile shoe that rocks. Plus, the Evolv rubber is BA as always...

Best shoes i have ever owned 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: beenjammin, 2008-06-02


Lets just say this now i am really hard on my shoes!! I went through two shoes in three months and one shoe lasted for two. These ones have lasted me almost 6 months and they are still in great shape. I shove my 10.5 size foot into a 9.5 awful at first but they do stretch. I climb mostly outdoors at a 5-10d level and i have never had any trouble with these things stickin to the rock all in all i love these shoes

Used and Abused 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2007-08-14


Time to write about these things. I just got out of living in Yosemite Valley for three months and used the hell out of these things and have used them for about nine months. These shoes are made for people with narrow feet and mortons toe, if you have it. I do not, but found the symetrical toe to work fine and not hinder my climbing. I have a B width forefoot and an A width heel with a very high arch. The heel is a tiny bit loose but nothing too noticeable and it didn't kill my performance, even with super sweaty feet. I also bought a size 10, half a size smaller than my street shoe, but these run a bit large. I didn't want them too tight as I enjoy long routes and never take my shoes off between pitches, half a size down was a good compromise. For the first half a year I used these as gym/occasional cragging shoe. The rubber is quite sticky and wore quick in the gym, and was a little stiff for my preference. I don't think these are an ideal gym climbing shoe, go for something softer. I got them resoled by Yosemite Bum just before heading off this summer, where they got their real use. For face climbing, I felt these shoes a little lacking in steep terrain and their edging ability. I wear a size 9, 5.ten Galileo for thin face and there is no comparison between the Demortos and those shoes. The demortos perform well on slab and are a good crack shoe, where I used them them the most. They stick well in finger cracks where you can barely get the toe in and can smear around the outside of the crack well. I've worn holes through the outside rand on the far side of each foot from jamming in fist and wider crack, telling me that the rands may be a little weak and don't last long for this type of climbing, but what shoe does? They are soft enough to conform to the crack well, but stiff enough to give good support without killing your feet during sustained jamming, a very good mix. Overall, I would say that the Demorto is the best all around shoe I've had in regards to both fit and performance. The pair I have will not be able to be resoled again due to the holes in the rand that go all the way through the synthetic material, but they served me well for the abuse I put them through. I would recomend them as an all around shoe.
DISCLAIMER: These shoes do not breath well. I wore them for a week straight at Red Rocks, NV and they stank pretty bad. I got complaints from my partners all week. I washed them thoroughly with soap and water and this solved the problem for a short while. This summer the shoes began to smell horrid. My partners would walk away and complain when I took off and put on my shoes, saying they couldn't stand the stench. I washed them just yesterday very heavily with soap and water and scrubbed the hell out of them (~30 minutes), then let them dry overnight with newspaper stuffed in them. They still stink quite bad so I stuffed drier sheets in them to relieve the problem, we'll see how that works. I've never had problems with smelly shoes until this pair. My friend owns a pair of Evolv slippers made of the same material and he complains about the stench and lack of breathability as well. Something to consider with these shoes.

The demorto; a gym-rat's perspective. 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: lopside, 2007-06-26


I have morton's toe and I climb pretty hard (5.11c onsights are commonplace, a bit harder redpoint, solidly v4 bouldering, occasionally onsight, sometimes ~v5) almost exclusively indoors, and the demorto has served me very well. When climbing for endurance, my arms feel tired long before my feet do. In my current pair, I've done 400+ ft traverses with little foot fatigue; incidentally, I cram my size 9.5 foot into a pair of size 8 demortos. when climbing for performance, I don't feel afraid to really load up on small pieces. My verdict is get yourself a pair and go out to pound some plastic.

A few little criticisms... The toe-rand could be more durable. Mine blew out, probably due to my spastic climbing style and relatively 'inexperienced' technique. The edging performance isn't the best I've ever tried, but it's alright. People with morton's toe often have abnormally narrow feet, especially their heels, and I've had a couple brutal heel hooks slip because these aren't perfectly snug around the ankles on me. Also, the jagged heel looks cool, but I'm not at all convinced it really holds heel-hooks as well as a plain smooth heel would.

But don't let this nitpicking scare you. I've tried a /lot/ of shoes, and these are the only ones that do it for me. If you have morton's toe, they'll probably do it for you too.

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