Best Hardcore shoe!
Review by: rashumon, 2008-12-21
My Solutions got lost and my Anasazi VS' are awesome but I wanted something a bit more aggressive and sensitive to replace the Solutions for those edgy super steep problems I'm so fond of climbing these days so I gave these a try! I had them now for about 6 weeks and I have been blown away! For me they are better than the Solutions. Overall, these are the best shoes I have ever climbed in - super aggressive yet surprisingly comfy once broken in. These are the sickest climbing shoes around, achieving perfect balance between stiffness, support and sensitivity mixed with the best rubber, so sticky and dependable it almost feels like cheating! These days I firmly believe that 5.10 make the best rock shoes hands down and these are the best in 5.10s stable... I love the feeling they give me when locked on a tiny edge on a steep wall where intense body tension and accurate footwork on small edges are called for. They are also great on more rounded rock such as sand and gritstone. I haven't really done slabs in them yet but I'm beginning to think they might actually work although smearing is not easy with such an aggressive last... Size them super tight, almost too painful, as they (unusually for 5.10) stretch a little bit and soften out after a few sessions, moulding perfectly to your foot's anatomy and shape to become quite comfortable without loosing any of their performance. They come very small compared to the Anasazi. I wear (UK sizes) 10.5 street and 8.5 Anasazi and my Dragons are super tight and cambered at 10.
Update - April 4th 2009
I have now had these for almost 6 months, climbing 3-4 times a week, bouldering up to V8 indoors and in a recent trip to Bishop. I'm still totally blown away by them! everything I said above stands and to add I would say they are also very reliable and well made - no quality problems or early wear are apparent so far and even the soft HF rubber on the soles seems to have a few more months of good hard bouldering left in it before it might need a resole. they have softened and stretched a bit more but that's not been detrimental to performance and the amazing thing is I can easily climb in them (as long as no hooking is called for) with the laces completely undone! in fact this is one of the coolest things about them - the rubber rand and last are so well tensioned around my feet that even without laces they fit like very cool slippers! I have flashed pretty a technical V6 with them like this recently. off course if strenuous hooking is necessary I still lace them up tight but for many problems I really like the lightness of touch and sensitivity they give when worn unlaced. its a really cool feature!
So, definitely still a 5 thumbs up a few months later!