Scarpa Vision (2006 model)
Review by: moment, 2007-08-30
Purchased size 40 pair with the old Vibram rubber (XS-V) for about $55. If the new Vibram rubber outperforms the old, then this shoe is absolutely brilliant if it fits well your foot. Edges very well, but maintains sensitivity. This combination results from a down-turned fore-section and off-set toe (the down-turn compensates for lack of stiffness in the toe) Fit is narrow throughout. Excellent on pockets, smears, small edges, and any holds on overhanging rock. Also excellent in thin cracks (haven't yet tried the shoe in wider cracks)
Update: heel seam tore after scumming up a fin, rubber peeled back. Scarpa in Boulder, CO encouraged me to send in the shoe for repair, told me that it would take a little over a week, and that if I glued it myself the shoe would no longer be under warranty. So I sent them in. Ruined half my climbing season, since I never saw them for another 6 - 7 weeks. Then the repairs staff had nerve to say the seam appeared to have been torn with a flat-head screw driver. To me, it was obvious that not enough glue had been applied between the leather and rubber, such that a bubble had formed between the rubber and leather. Great shoe, slightly botched craftsmanship, but ABSOLUTELY AWFUL SERVICE from Scrapa in Boulder.