The best so far, the BEST!
Review by: boylagz, 2009-04-07
I have been wearing these for about half a year now (got them resoled already R&R you guys rock!), and I can say, they are the best. I've been climbing for about 2years plus straight now; mostly gym, but have tried limestone back in SE Asia, both bouldering and sport. I've always loved scarpa's and still do, they rock. Only problems with the heel, both with the old school Vortex and Dominator V.
Now for the awesome venoms. First off the fit, which is the most important thing for performance shoes. I wear 9.5-10 US men's street shoe size. I have these in 39 EU, and its perfect. Nothing beats trying them on in a store, but if you can't, I'd try to give the best sizing picture. I bought my first pair around 07, it was a 40.5, it was OK, but still so much dead space in the heel, and going to a 39 was the best. Literally no dead space, and heel hooking is a breeze. Toe hooks are awesome too. No doubt. For more sizing comparison, since my brother and I have the same feet size: 8.5US in the anasazi lace up (pink), 8US moccasym, 9US dragon lace ups and around 8-8.5US anasazi velcro (new onyxx model). I wear a 9US in the Boreal mutant. Sorry no experience with Evolv shoes yet. They can be painful when worn for longer than 10mins or so in the size/fit I use. But if you want edging performance, glove fitting rock shoes; just that feeling that you know you won't slip even how small those footholds are, these are the way to go. Alongside the anasazi laceups, these are my fave for sport climbing requiring good feet for the smallest of footholds. Better get them now that there are still sizes available, LS doesn't hold these in their site anymore, theyre stopping it, FOR NOW maybe. Just like the cobra's, I reckon they'll be back soon, for sure. These are the best. I can say Vibram XS grip is quite a soft rubber, but ill sticky; yeah they rock! Ive resoled mine with C4 though, no difference in terms of performance, for me at least.
That's it. Hope this helps. Go out and get these! Size 'em right, you won't be sorry. The only thing you'll be saying is "Hell yeah!"