Review by: wax, 2006-09-07
I love these shoes except for one thing... all of the 'innovations' they tried to cram into them.
First, the good: the ribbed heel actually locks down vey nicely, and being soft and deformable, works with my narrow and small heels. That is not to say that they fit me well, but they seem to work better that any of my other shoes, which have a much stiffer heel cup. The Mad Rubber is very sticky and works great on the steep stuff, however it ain't too stiff (but I'll get into that later). Having a whopping amount of rubber over the big toe is nice for toe hooking, and having slits cut into them allows the area over the big toe knuckle to 'give' a little (meaning a bit more comfort... but super star trust, the power is still there) as well and helping a toe hook stick better.
White is nice colour for the uppers and being lined and synthetic, they don't stretch too much, though they do feel a little bulky. Three velcro straps are a nice touch for fine adjusting the fit, if only...
the bad: ... the hook and lace (velcro) they use didn't totally suck. I ended up 'barge' cementing on a huge swath of the lace part of velcro on the shoe so that the straps would stick a little better. But I still have problems with the straps popping open.
As for their 'innovations', the webbing on the uppers do nothing and peel right off... which is fine actually cuz then in lightens up the shoe and actually makes them look better. I guess it's not such a bad thing then, but don't think that this 'feature' will help you climb.
aaaaaaaaaand the 'hooker 3D sole'... is a nifty little feature to start with, however when the toe wears away (and it does quite fast), the lateral rigidity of the sole goes all floppy, and I found myself geting severe foot fatigue. However I am partial to a stiffer sole, so maybe it's just me.
But all that being said, I do love these shoes, once i managed to figure out how they work for me. It took a bit of work, but I have had them resoled twice now and keep them around as my backtime shoe as they are much comfortable then my 'project' shoes, so when I'm bouldering all day and think I wanna cut off my feet, I just switch to my Loco's and can keep cranking.