the technical solution...
Review by: gptoyz, 2011-11-17
In short, the most confident climbing shoe I have ever owned. It's my go-to shoe when I'm going to attempt or project a route.
The long I have gone through the following performance shoes:
5.10 anasazi vcs; jet7; dragon, galileo; La Sportiva Solution, Cobra, testarosa.
None of which have the fit and feel of the Miura VS. The rubber is extremely grippy, and while the rand/last/sole are very supportive, it gives me just enough sensitivity to feel for the smallest features on the wall. The testarosa is far to malleable and sensitive and feels like I'm wearing nothing. The solution while grippy, is far too vague. Whether I need to heel hook, toe hook, edge, smear or toe down, this shoe has never failed me.
Sizing: I'm a euro 43 it just about every shoe I wear from motorcycle racing boots, snowboard boots, hiking boots to casual shoes. When I purchased the miura, I took the advice of some of the local advanced climbers and bought the smallest shoe I could manage to cram my foot in physically. That ended up being a size 37.5. It was incredibly excruciating to wear for the first 2 weeks. I wore them in the shower and left them on to break in. I would wear them for 5 minutes at a time at work/watching tv/reading. After about a month of these rituals I was finally able to work @ my level. It accelerated my climbing level from v3 - v5; from 5.10a to 5.11d.
I have now had these Miura VS for 3 years and 5 resoles (only factory Vibram XS Grip rubber from Rock and Resole in Colorado). I have worn them in the gyms and outside; on technical sport routes, overhung power boulder problems. After 3 years and 1 month of relatively consistent usage, the velcro is losing its grip. When I toe down and crank on my shoes, the velcro surrenders and pops off, prompting a frustrating readjustment.
-every serious climber at my gym has these; so you need to personalize it with a sharpie or learn to develop your olfactory senses to identify your own particular foot fungi.
-can't wear them longer than 20 minutes.
-velcro eventually gives up (laces will last forever)
-uncomfortable to crack, effectively