Review by: jermanimal, 2009-10-26
Is everyone else using the same shoe. They are not like last years "new mugen". The new toe wrap really sucks, the toe box has a completely different shape now and puts power to the small toes, not the big toe. The body stretches because it is a lined leather, also doesn't smell at all, toe rubber though, does move and isn't balanced with how the shoe stretches. I would rather have more rubber over the big toe (like pontas) and then freedom for other toes. This just seems more natural for my foot, power to the big toe.
While I really like the dual thickness rubber for steep bouldering...like the con-flicts (which I love)...these just never feel right when smearing and have little sensitivity on edges. Sticky, yes very, but there needs to be a balance of stickyness vs edging power. To make a rubber sticky on rock it has to conform to the surface textures, if you could get sticky and a strong edge I would love it, but these are not it...there is a reason people still like Stealth C4.
Mad rock went from having a stiff edge to a super soft edge, I would a have liked some middle ground for the Muguens...that said I really like the sticky on my con-flicts, i think they are a better shoe.
Keep in mind like everything else, fit is super important a different shaped foot might enjoy these more then I.