Most of the climbing routes in the entire area go along fissures, opened along the layers surfaces. They are usually open and for belay are needed friends, wallnuts and wider pegs. Another group of routes go on the layer's surfaces themselves using cracks directed across the layers (the routes the "Mirrors", "Jubileen"). Most of them are closed, smooth surfaces, which makes the necessary the use of narrower pegs. Under the action of the erosion some widely opened layer's surfaces are eroded in depth (route "Mihail Hergiani"). The limestone there is softer and breakable. In general for the climbing area Vrattzata can be said that it's very interesting and is characterized with diverse rock shapes, demanding the use of all types of climbing and diverse gear - wallnuts, friends etc. Wallnuts are used more often in comparison with the friends, because the cracks are rarely with nice, smooth sides. Many times you may come across smooth slabs with small pockets as well as rings. Sometimes they can be used for belay by running a sling through them. Another characteristic of the massif is that it has much vegetation - trees, bushes and grass. Some of the trees can be used for belay but most of them (as well as the bushes and the weeds) only fill up the forms of the rock, impede climbing and are at least unpleasant. However, there are some exceptions. For example the massif of "Hergiani". Most of the new routes are swiped as well as the massifs that became "Climbing gardens" - "The Small Vrattza", the section next to the road of the Vrattzata pass, "The Small Hole", "The Big Hole". The rock is generally solid. The rocks that form the ridges are more breakable. Some danger of rock falls exists for the routes, which are near to gullies and to chimneys. (For example the routes "The Chimneys", "The Rainbow"). In the past while climbing in hot weather of dusty routes appeared the so-called "Vratza pimple". It is a rash noticeable mainly on the areas of the body, which tend to have contact with the clothing. However, it doesn't happen very often. As a precaution try to avoid contact with the bushes and the grass. On these rocks you may see the most dangerous European snake - the ashy snake. It is recognizable with its small horn. If a bite occurs it's necessary to go for medical treatment. Many times you will see lizards on the rock, which are absolutely harmless. Other dwellers in the area are the goats. They can reach exceptionally difficult for approach places. Sometimes they can cause rock falls originating from the sliding stones above the climbing areas.
|Photo Location:||Europe: Bulgaria: Vratza: Main_Wall|