Old Country topo popular
ZEPPLIN BOULDER Description: Located just Northeast of Disco and directly east of Turtle shell. Look for the unfortunate graffiti of Led Zepplin. 1. Saucius V0On Zepplin to the right of the simiolus problem. Step up on to the good ledge and head strait up. Another short but sweet bp to trust those feet as there are no hand holds. FA: Jeff Stephan 2. Simiolus V3 *Personal favorite Old C problem on west face far right side of Zepplin. Sit-start under overhang with matching hands. Up and over with tough match to sloper. Bump to sidepull, set feet and top out. Latin for "Little Ape". FA: Jeff Stephan 3. Stercus! V0Just left of Simiolus on Zepplin boulder. Left side off. Go up blank face using small feet. Top out the same as Simiolus. Sit start using the left side of the offwith makes it more interesting at V2. FA: Jeff Stephan 4. Matris Futuor V4On Zepplin to the right of Specus. Good left starting hold is all you have to get the pocket way up there! You can go for it static - making you "play the piano", or dynamic and flail...any which way you choose, it's a MF! FA: Matt Stanich 5. Misericordia V2First problem to the right of the big cave on Zepplin. Step up to a rail and get the triangle side pull. Then go up to the obvious flake and top out. Flake is loose for side pulls but OK for down pulls. ONLY PULL DOWN ON FLAKE! FA: Matt Stanich 6. Specus V2Straight up over cave entrance on Zepplin boulder. Get a good spot on this one. FA: Matt Stanich 7. Infectus V ?? To the left of the Specus bp on Zepplin. Two finger pocket and small crimp. Risk strange body placement to reach slopey yet positive hold. Rock over and finish at the top of the Fido problem. 8. Fido VB *On Zepplin boulder. Straight up over the Led Zepplin graffiti. Great exposure foot problem for beginners. FA: Jeff Stephan 9. Mental Mantel V0Above Zepplin boulder at the far south end. Sit start at the left and move up and right over the large overhang above the pit in the ground. FA: Matt Stanich DISCO BOULDER Description: As you come down from the 118 leaving Old Topanga Blvd. and making a right on the horse trail, you will come back down the hill south and eventually to a crossroad. Disco boulder located here. 10. Footprints VB **Excellent boulder problem utilizing footwork up northside of Disco boulder. Start off to the left and make your way right to the obvious opening. Happens also to be the way off Disco! For a challenge, try descending the whole way down rather than jumping at the half-way point. FA: Jeff Stephan 11. Just because V1Start of Footprints on Disco boulder and go straight up over bulge using a good hold to pull and eventually mantle. FA: Jeff Stephan 12. Balencia V2Start directly to the right of the opening atop disco boulder. Step up into a small dish and proceed straight up/right avoiding the easy finish to the left. FA: Matt Stanich 13. Disco left love V4Up the slopey aręte using a sharp left micro crimp. Dyno to top with skating feet. Left of Stephan problem. FA: Matt Stanich 14. Stephan problem V4Awesome dynamic problem located on West side of Disco boulder cloaked in deception on solid sandstone. Can also be done static using a small dime size pocket. FA: Jeff Stephan 15. Mr. Toad's Legitimate Ride V0(South face of Disco boulder) Even though I've cleaned this sucker there's still the potential to take a ride with some rock...I sure did many a time. Undercling to large hueco and up. Be wary of the top holds as they flex...yet continue to hold. Great moves! FA: Jeff Stephan 16. Disco traverse V3Start at the base of Mr. Toad and traverse the entire boulder to the right. Stay as low as possible around the footprints area. By the time you get back around to Mr. Toad's, down climb the route to complete traverse. V-moderate. (crux is last move of Mr. Toad down climb) GRANDFATHER BOULDER Description: Located just west of Disco at crossroads. You will find old top-rope hangers on this one. Boulder holds great potential especially considering that someone back in Stoney's history found its worth great enough to place hangers. 17. Sir Nose VB Ascend the main crack on the south west side of Grandfather. Can't miss it because the crack outline looks like a nose. The sit start is a grade or two harder. FA: Matt Stanich 18. Booger V0Sit start variation to Sir Nose where the starting hold is inside the bottom of the nose. 19. Apollo V3Just to the right of Sir Nose on the Grandfather. Start with right hand in flake, go up and left to a pocket much higher, then straight up to the top. FA: Matt Stanich 20. Dionysus V3Just to the right of Sir Nose on Grandfather. Shares start with Apollo, but start left hand in flake, move up and right to triangular hold. then to corner to left of ledge and top out. FA: Matt Stanich 21. Shakey Jake V3Start to the right of Dionysus and left of the Diving Board on Grandfather. Start with your hands just above the overhang and go straight up, using a few tricks along the way. The bottom of the diving board is off. FA: Matt Stanich 22. Diving Board V0 *Climb up ramp at the south east end of Grandfather, use slopers to mantel overhang. Exciting move! May help to place crash pad to the left of the ramp. FA: Jeff Stephan 23. And that’s the way the Cookie Crumbles V0Start to the right of the diving board on grandfather boulder. Climb to the left of the easy groove to an overhang, mantel the small overhang/roof using holds that continue to crumble and top out. FA: Matt Stanich 24. The Sternumator V5To the left of Pluck Yew. Match on the bulge, set the feet, and make a dynamic throw to a good but far up hold. Watch blowing out your sternum. 25. Pluck Yew V3Oh yeah, well pluck yew too! Just left of Sit and Spin on Grandfather. Go up the face using the mono and some small crimps to a slopey top out, the wall to the right of sit and spin is off. FA: Matt Stanich 26. Sit and Spin VB Strange problem on north side of Grandfather boulder just left of Rachel. Go up water spout by twisting and eventually turning 180 degrees around to top out! FA: Jeff Stephan 27. Rachel V0 *Great problem up solid sandstone located on north side of Grandfather boulder. Right on horn, left side pull. Up to small ledge then finally top out with sketchy mantle. FA: Jeff Stephan WISHING WELL BOULDER Description: Located Northwest of turtle shell boulder. Home to some overhanging and face problems. POTENTIALLY OFFERING STONEY'S HARDEST BP YET? On south face – about a 4 move problem involving a sick dead point from a sit-start to topping out over the lip. Only been sent in my imagination – have at it!. 28. Slinky V2East side of Wishing Well boulder. Match hands with left foot on chip to a left hand hold. Bring up foot to good ledge and finish with slopey top-out. Excellent. FA: Matt Stanich 29. Kind of Bleu V2 **To the right of Slinky on Wishing Well boulder. Left in large hole and up using a variety of slopers. Classic Old C bp. FA: Matt Stanich 30. The Leftist Movement V0North side of Wishing Well boulder. Right in hole to a left hand mantle finish. FA: Jeff Stephan 31. Cashew V3To the right of "Leftist Movement" on north face of wishing well boulder. Small left pocket and very small crimps including one that looks like a cashew to top out. FA: Matt Stanich 32. Bones V0West face of wishing well. Start with match hands in obvious dish. Up to good left hole and finish top out with a few crimps. FA: Jeff Stephan 33. Skull V1On west face of wishing well boulder. Start same as Bones with match hands in dish. Go up to right hole and continue right to top out using far smaller crimps. FA: Jeff Stephan 34. Crest Mantle V2Mantle up the south center face of wishing well. FA: Jeff Stephan GODFATHER BOULDER Description: Continue east going past the south face of Disco boulder. The horse trail will quickly end continuing as a faint hiking trail. Follow this trail to the West face of the Godfather. 35. Princess flake V5On the Godfather boulder to the left of Bob's Bigboy, start on the crimps up the obvious sidepull flake and up. Pull *very* lightly, the flake will move a lot, and will probably break off with much use. 36. Bob's bigboy V4Up center of Godfather boulder using 2 small crimps to right edge. Match and proceed out right. Fight to get your feet up! FA: Jeff Stephan 37. Brush Work V2On Godfather boulder just right of Bob's Big Boy. Left in undercling to a right layback and up. Just when you think you're done, there’s the fun top-out. FA: Matt Stanich NUGGET BOULDER Description: The overhanging boulder located next to Godfather boulder on the West facing side. 38. It's like Gold V2 **Instant Old C classic. South side of Nugget boulder. Good left with shallow 2 finger right. Get left foot up and work with the slopers through the groove. Short yet sweet. FA: Matt Stanich 39. Iron Pyrite V?Large two handed pocket dyno to lip on Nugget Boulder. Bad feet, bad landing, great problem. TURTLE SHELL BOULDER Description: One excellent BP on the north side of this boulder located about 20 yds. north of Disco. 40. Turtle Shell Mantle V1 *Heel-hook and mantle over the overhanging shelf. Sit start (V2). FA: Jeff Stephan MIDGET BOULDERS Description: West of Turtle Shell boulder about 20 yds. A variety of easy to hard sit-starts on these two boulders varying between V0-V4. Much thanks to Troy, David, Jane, Rachel, and especially Matt for helping expand this area!! We have just begun!