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Faye 5.9

Faye 5.9

FAYE 5.9 168m (550’). F.A. August 1st 2005, Kevin Watson, Mitch Roberts.
Approach: As for Kahl Crack or Morning Side. The shortest approach is from the small break in the rock-cut on Highway #1 eastbound. Alternatively, you can park and the South East end of the “Lac des Arc’s” overpass and follow a very well defined but abandon access road which gently climbs up the slope to the base of Kahl Crack.
From rock-cut on Highway #1. A steep but short trail climbs from the highway and joins the “Historic Trail”. This wide trail (formerly access road) switches back four times before arriving at the “tunnel” which is basically the start of Kahl Crack. From the tunnel entrance area, follow a well-defined trail westward along the base of the cliffs. Just before this nice gravel pathway drops down into a smaller game trail, there is a rather wide, flat area that defines the start of Morning side. Follow the main game trail until you arrive at a rock cairn, approximately 275 meters (300 yards). Follow game trail upwards to base of second rock-band. Head back left (east) following game trail, climbing slightly until arriving at base of groove. Approximately 123 meters (135 yards). There is a bolt located just under the small overhang on the left (east), which marks the first belay and will keep you out of the line of fire from rock-fall.
*Note: alternatively you could climb the lower slab to the base of the main groove. Recommended gear would be; machete, weed eater, and a chainsaw.
Start up groove which cuts right (west) diagonally to treed ledge. This first section is loose but protected by (3) bolts. You can optionally lead past this ledge, but rope drag from bushes makes this difficult higher up. (2 bolts located at this ledged for belay/rap.)
From treed ledge follow groove straight up (nice layback feature) until groove widens into slabby section. Climb trending right (west) until reaching another groove that leads to large ledge with excellent belay/rap trees. Be careful where sitting on this ledge, which we referred to as "Home of the Anal Attack Ants".
Walk right (west) on ledge to the last large trees where obvious corner leads to small treed ledge. From this ledge bolts are visible directly above. (3 bolts) which take you to small prominent crack with large holds to gain small ledge. (crux).
Follow small diagonal (right) corner to very large ledge with excellent belay/rap trees. Follow ledge right (west) 100’+ crossing base of prominent exit gully (exposed). It is recommended to belay across this traverse, although not technically difficult, the narrow and loose ledges make the ramifications of slipping here all too obvious.
Although the prominent crack on the left (east) and chimney above appear to be the obvious exit, climb the pillar-like feature on the right (west) side of gully, traversing slightly right (west) as you go. Continue up slope to large belay/rap tree.
Descent: is via the route.
It is possible to rappel from the upper game trail (start of climb) *almost* to the base of lower slab. A single 50m rope doubled around one of the lower trees to the west will land you about 15-20 feet above the trail. A small amount of bushwhacking to gain the main trail substantially cuts down the return trip.
[LIST] [b]Recommended Gear [/b] =Ropes= (2) -50m ropes =Slings= (8) 8-10 draws (2) -Long slings (4) -Medium (4) -Short =Pitons= (3) -KB's (1) -Med bugaboo (1) -Shallow angle (1) -Med angle (1) -Baby angle (2) -#5 lost arrows =Cams= #00 to #10 would be helpful but you could get by with #2 to #6 =Wires= (1) Set of small wired stoppers [/LIST]

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Rock Climbing Photo Location Photo Location: North_America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Mount_McGillivray: McGillivray_Slabs

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