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Trad

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Matt seconding the Zanzibar Dihedral Average Rating = 3.00/5 Matt seconding the Zanzibar Dihedral
The Zanzibar Dihedral (5.8)is one of the many second pitch options on the Weller Slab. Beautiful, high friction granite slab climing with some wonderful cracks. This pitch was an absolute classic! Unfortunately, we were a bit pressed by the incoming storms so I didn't really have the time to enjoy it as much as I should have! Well worth doing if you're in the area. (This was Matt's first trad climb, by the way!)
Submitted by: pinto on 2002-07-27
Views: 129 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
Rostrum 11a sequence on P2 Average Rating = 3.25/5 Rostrum 11a sequence on P2
Here's Dan D cranking the 11a sequence on the left hand variation of Pitch 2. Edit:submitted photo too large by accident
Submitted by: karlbaba on 2002-07-26
Views: 120 | Votes: 8 | Comment: 1
Airy Overhang Average Rating = 3.33/5 Airy Overhang
We were hiking along the Grand Canyon one day.. and just decided to set a top roap on some over hang right off the path. 5.10 or so i would guess.
Submitted by: simzboardr on 2002-07-26
Views: 52 | Votes: 8 | Comments: 0
1st pitch of Moby Dick Average Rating = 3.17/5 1st pitch of Moby Dick
Nice moderate climbing in the backcountry of Arizona. Picture of Dale taken by Todd.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-07-25
Views: 51 | Votes: 6 | Comments: 0
Do you trust small gear? Average Rating = 4.30/5 Do you trust small gear?
Tit For Tat (24 or 5.11d) is a trad classic of Mt Stuart in North Queensland. The angle is steep, and the gear is universally small, relying mostly on small wires, RP's and small aliens. The crux involves a balancy yet powerful layoff move on a tiny crimp with a #2 RP at your feet. At least one climber has snapped an RP here during the fall.

Here on the onsight attempt we see Aaron desperately trying to get into a position where he can actually place some gear!
Submitted by: manacubus on 2002-07-24
Views: 87 | Votes: 31 | Comments: 10
1st pitch of Renaissance Direct Average Rating = 3.00/5 1st pitch of Renaissance Direct
Classic route in the McDowell Mountains. The first pitch consists of face climbing, a dihedral, a roof, and a crack. The second pitch is an easy face climb. This is a picture of Dale on the first pitch taken by Sheryl.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-07-23
Views: 93 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 0
Addiroids At the Top Average Rating = 2.50/5 Addiroids At the Top
This me coiling the rope after climbing on Olive Oil. The weather played many tricks on us that day. First it was clear, then it rained, then stopped, then rained, stopped, rained, snowed, rained, snowed, stopped. Then about 30 minutes later it started raining again...and didn't stop...and rained harder...until at the last pitch (a dihedral) it was pouring down the crack like a freakin' waterfall. Fun times jamming a waterfall at 45 degrees outside. Hey, what do you expect, we are trad climbers?!?! Something about the day is going to suck!!! Photo by wallhammer.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2002-07-21
Views: 56 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
Will Dameron, the Atomic Punk Average Rating = 3.43/5 Will Dameron, the Atomic Punk
Will Dameron flashing his way to victory on this classic Blue Mountains face route - Atomic Punk (20 or 5.10b).
Submitted by: manacubus on 2002-07-21
Views: 77 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 3
Getting back on rock Average Rating = 3.50/5 Getting back on rock
My first lead (Te Dam 5.7 ***) after my agonizing knee injury I’m still very shaky and I lead with “5.10 Guide almighty” the best shoes if u get back on rock after a legs injury
Submitted by: punk on 2002-07-20
Views: 72 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
High E Crux Average Rating = 2.67/5 High E Crux
Here is the crux of “High Exposure” Pretty awkward move for a 5.6 the beta is go with the left hand although the right is very tempting and bring the 3.5 or 4 Camelot with double shoulder length sling to protect this move
Submitted by: punk on 2002-07-20
Views: 69 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 5
Squeeze chimney racking Average Rating = 2.33/5 Squeeze chimney racking
Educational photo? Rack set up to tow or wear, nothing on the harness, water bottle, long tie-in to harness. This is to illustrate a "Squeeze chimney logistics for beginners" post in the Trad forum.
Submitted by: ergophobe on 2002-07-18
Views: 71 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 2
Cascading Crystal Kaleidescope Average Rating = 2.00/5 Cascading Crystal Kaleidescope
Tony Calderone is wide open on Cascading Crystal Kaleidescope, 1988.
Submitted by: whenindoubtrunitout on 2002-07-18
Views: 48 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 2
Bloody Fingers (5.10d) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Bloody Fingers (5.10d)
Tony Calderone on Bloody Fingers (5.10d) City of Rocks National Monument, Idaho
Submitted by: whenindoubtrunitout on 2002-07-18
Views: 138 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 2
The Baby (right between The Mummy and The Daddy) Average Rating = 2.50/5 The Baby (right between The Mummy and The Daddy)
We got a little off route on the Daddy at Linville Gorge (Detour Dave strikes again) and wound up going straight up through a large lichen covered section to the top on the last pitch. This was fine for me at the lichen was really grippy when dry but once I got to the top it started raining. My partner Lisa Lorenzin started up on second after it stopped and the lichen has turned into greases goose sh*t. She took her first wild swinging outdoor fall on a remote trad climb while traversing to clean a piece of pro I had set way off to the side. I couldn't see her from the top and just heard screams (unsettling!). Anyway, this line is somewhere between The Mummy and the Daddy so we called it The Baby (probably illegitimate). The small photo in the corner shows where Lisa is belaying from.
Submitted by: detourdave on 2002-07-18
Views: 139 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
My 8-yr old daughter Average Rating = 4.00/5 My 8-yr old daughter
Photo is on Adolescent Homosapien on the Decadent Wall. Climber is my daughter, Samantha (age 8). The crux for her was lowering off, due to rope drag...she only weighs 45 pounds.... Photo by Jason Cronk, 2002.
Submitted by: jtcronk on 2002-07-16
Views: 118 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Gavin on East Buttress panorama Average Rating = 4.35/5 Gavin on East Buttress panorama
Here's a composite shot of Gavin M. starting a traverse high on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. There has been some rockfall lately on the descent in Cathedral Chimney. There is beta about an alternate descent route on my site at http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/Eastbuttressoverview.html.
Submitted by: karlbaba on 2002-07-13
Views: 80 | Votes: 24 | Comments: 6
NE Buttress of Higher-Traverse Average Rating = 3.86/5 NE Buttress of Higher-Traverse
Doug starting the traverse to the chimney section of the North East Buttress of Higher Cathedral. An Awesome Physical Climb.
Submitted by: karlbaba on 2002-07-12
Views: 68 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 0
Climber Will back to school on Archimedes Principle Average Rating = 3.67/5 Climber Will back to school on Archimedes Principle
Achimedes Principle is reason enough to buy a ticket to Australia. The second pitch is 30m of bliss. Unfortunately my goofing off in high school algebra ended my onsight attempt short of the top. Guess I'll have to go back and take the test again. Photo credit to Brenton Warren
Submitted by: climberwill on 2002-07-12
Views: 60 | Votes: 6 | Comments: 0
Brett no longer doggin Average Rating = 3.50/5 Brett no longer doggin
This is my partner Brett clibming on Sacherer Cracker, photo taken by Karl Baba
Submitted by: radistrad on 2002-07-12
Views: 58 | Votes: 8 | Comments: 0
Sully on Naked and the Dead Average Rating = 3.50/5 Sully on Naked and the Dead
Indian Creek Naked and the Dead Pitch 1: 5.8 and kind of thin Pitch 2: 5.10 and weird
Submitted by: sully on 2002-07-12
Views: 35 | Votes: 6 | Comments: 0
Arm & Jammer 5.7+ Average Rating = 2.29/5 Arm & Jammer 5.7+
Good route with a tricky but dhort crux sequence. If this route were 20 feet longer there would be a line at it every weekend....
Submitted by: bouldertoad on 2002-07-11
Views: 114 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 0
Karl Baba on East Buttress El Cap Average Rating = 4.00/5 Karl Baba on East Buttress El Cap
This picture was taken by partner Doug F. of me starting the airy traverse high on the East Buttress of El Cap. This is a great route that I have taken many friends up and also soloed numerous times, using a rope on the harder pitches.
Submitted by: karlbaba on 2002-07-11
Views: 70 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 2
The Sentinal Average Rating = 3.50/5 The Sentinal
The Sentinal is another of those awsomely inspiring pieces of rock that once its lure gets to you theres no choice but to take the bull by the horns!
Submitted by: kagunkie on 2002-07-11
Views: 22 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 0
Cathedral Spires Average Rating = 3.00/5 Cathedral Spires
The Cathedral Spires are as inspiring a piece of rock as Iv ever seen. Hopefully my next trip to the valley Ill find myself on them.
Submitted by: kagunkie on 2002-07-11
Views: 65 | Votes: 9 | Comments: 2
Seth on Tree Root, 5.5 R Average Rating = 3.75/5 Seth on Tree Root, 5.5 R
This is my brother-in-law on Tree Root, 5.5R, climbing up to me at the top of one of the pitches. It's at the Black Wall, outside of Santa Barbara, California. A fun little climb.
Submitted by: mrtristan on 2002-07-14
Views: 48 | Votes: 4 | Comment: 1
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