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Forums: Climbing Information: Access Issues & Closures:
Poll on chipping

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fluxus


Nov 3, 2006, 2:39 PM
Post #276 of 281 (18800 views)
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 889

Re: Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

In reply to:
Yes loose rocks and blocks have been taken down to make the route safe and secure but not done to intentionally alter the rock to make it go one grade or another.

Fuzzbait in both your posts I think you may be making a distinction without a difference. But it does get back to the central question of why might chipping be a bad thing? You seems to be saying that altering the rock is o.k. if its done for safety but that's it. The problem here is that cleaning loose blocks alters the rock and how a climb is done just as much as gluing, comfortizing, cleaning out a crack, sculpting a hold etc.

Some climbing areas have such poor rock that many holds and features of a climb could break off under weight. So cleaning for safety is at times the same thing as creating a climb. I've bolted lines in areas like this, and your distinction simply does not apply. It does not really apply anywhere if the main value is leaving the cliff in a natural state. If the main value isn't leaving the cliff in a more natural state then the entire debate consists of various degrees of philosophical contrivance, which makes it hard to really get an answer. Its more intellectually and historically honest to adknowledge the very important role that chipping has played in climbing (for good and bad) than it is to scream at your partner for comfortizing a hold.


fuzzbait


Nov 3, 2006, 11:46 PM
Post #277 of 281 (18800 views)
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Registered: Dec 27, 2005
Posts: 68

Re: Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

Thank You Fluxus.
When I talk about my ethics of route making I am doing it from a strictly climbing point of view. In other words I am not taking into consideration environmental impacts on the cliff in my arguments. (Now this does not mean I go out there clear cutting and removing every tiny plant on the cliff face. Common sense people no need to elaborate.)

You are correct when you point out that there are no clear cut answers. There is no black and white, no rule book that can be applied. It is up to the individual route maker and governed by the area they are putting routes up in.

In reply to:
You seems to be saying that altering the rock is o.k. if its done for safety but that's it.

Yes, this is what I am saying.

In reply to:
"The problem here is that cleaning loose blocks alters the rock and how a climb is done just as much as gluing, comfortizing, cleaning out a crack, sculpting a hold etc."

While I completely agree with you that rock is being altered either way I believe you have erred by NOT making a distinction between cleaning of a route and the blatant manufacturing of it. This is where the actual problem lies.

You CANNOT compare cleaning for safety to taking a hammer, drill or any other tool with the intent of altering the rock so that it is more comfortable or enables climbers of lower grades to be able to complete it.

Every route maker should err on the side of doing as little as possible to the rock. Ideally you just go in there find the perfect route place and drill your bolts and climb on. These kind of routes are few and far between though. So you must use your judgement and clean just what is necessary as lightly as is effective. Remove rocks, dirt and debris that are loose and in the way again less is better. Smooth rough edges that may come in contact with rope. Common sense and a minimalist attitude.

In reply to:
Fuzzbait in both your posts I think you may be making a distinction without a difference.

I made the distinction in my last posts because I DO feel there is a difference!

Joe


kalcario


Nov 4, 2006, 12:47 AM
Post #278 of 281 (18800 views)
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 1601

Re: Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

In reply to:

While I completely agree with you that rock is being altered either way I believe you have erred by NOT making a distinction between cleaning of a route and the blatant manufacturing of it. This is where the actual problem lies.

You CANNOT compare cleaning for safety to taking a hammer, drill or any other tool with the intent of altering the rock so that it is more comfortable or enables climbers of lower grades to be able to complete it.

I made the distinction in my last posts because I DO feel there is a difference!

Joe

So when you glue/reinforce features instead of cleaning them off, doesn't that make the route easier, not harder? And isn't gluing/reinforcing blatant manufacturing, too?

And you seem to be implying that blank choss should be left alone so that better climbers can try harder sequences later. But harder sequences means smaller holds, and on bad quality rock, the smaller holds simply break off, leaving nothing. Go try it for yourself - find some choss, grab some little edges, and start yanking. It's sika and drilled pockets, or keep driving.

The simple reality is that there is nothing wrong with taking a previously unclimbed, otherwise worthless pile of rock, where nobody else ever goes or has reason to, and turning it into an outdoor gym, and this is the situation where the vast majority of route manufacturing takes place, and that there are plenty of crags to go to where nothing of the sort occurs, and if you don't like manufactured routes, don't go where they are.

Most developers of choss are grizzled veterans, not beginning/intermediate level climbers like most of the people on this thread (and site). Decades of climbing experience (hopefully) teaches you that rocks are, in fact, inanimate objects, without emotions or feelings, that cannot be "hurt" in the same sense as a person or a puppy. You should all get together and start some sort of crusade against granite counter-tops, or road cuts, or something along those lines, if you are so concerned with this hurting-the-rock issue.


fuzzbait


Nov 5, 2006, 5:34 PM
Post #279 of 281 (18800 views)
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Registered: Dec 27, 2005
Posts: 68

Re: Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

In reply to:
rocks are, in fact, inanimate objects, without emotions or feelings, that cannot be "hurt" in the same sense as a person or a puppy. You should all get together and start some sort of crusade against granite counter-tops, or road cuts, or something along those lines, if you are so concerned with this hurting-the-rock issue.

Where in my or anybody elses post did you get the notion that we are some sort of hippie rock huggers? (No offense to hippies you guys are great :D .) This point you make about emotions and feelings for the rock is baseless and ridiculous! You are so off the mark!


In reply to:
So when you glue/reinforce features instead of cleaning them off, doesn't that make the route easier, not harder? And isn't gluing/reinforcing blatant manufacturing, too?

Again kalcario I will state it comes down to common sense. There is no black and white. Use your best judgment when deciding how you will make your routes. If you think gluing back a hold or reinforcing one that looks like it will pop off is the only option available then......

Of all the routes I have done I have never ran into this kinda situation. Of the several dozen I have assisted or watched this has never happened. I know it does happen so when something like that comes up make the best choice for the future of the route. I am more referring to drilling holds, making existing ones bigger and especially comfortizing holds.

In reply to:
And you seem to be implying that blank choss should be left alone so that better climbers can try harder sequences later. But harder sequences means smaller holds, and on bad quality rock, the smaller holds simply break off, leaving nothing. Go try it for yourself - find some choss, grab some little edges, and start yanking. It's sika and drilled pockets, or keep driving.

This reminds me of the "What if...." questions I always used to bug my public school teachers with.
You are missing the point kalcario.

In reply to:
The simple reality is that there is nothing wrong with taking a previously unclimbed, otherwise worthless pile of rock, where nobody else ever goes or has reason to, and turning it into an outdoor gym, and this is the situation where the vast majority of route manufacturing takes place, and that there are plenty of crags to go to where nothing of the sort occurs, and if you don't like manufactured routes, don't go where they are.

In reply to:
Most developers of choss are grizzled veterans, not beginning/intermediate level climbers like most of the people on this thread (and site). Decades of climbing experience (hopefully) teaches [them].

Look my feeling is we need to have a strong stance Against chipping, drilling, sculpting, gluing, and/or comfortizing. However, realizing that there are situations that it may be necessary. For every rule there are always exceptions.
As you said most people on here are beginners who are here looking for advice. We need to be firm in our positions that this kind of practice is not the norm. That it is not acceptable. Manufacturing routes is not the way to go.

Grizzled veterans developing choss? This is another issue. Would I do it? No. I am not nearly that experienced (and may never be).

Common Sense, Minimalist attitude. Enough said. Done.

Joe


kalcario


Nov 5, 2006, 6:20 PM
Post #280 of 281 (18800 views)
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 1601

Re: Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

In reply to:
Look my feeling is we need to have a strong stance Against chipping, drilling, sculpting, gluing, and/or comfortizing. However, realizing that there are situations that it may be necessary. For every rule there are always exceptions.


If that's a strong stance, what would a weak stance be?

In reply to:
As you said most people on here are beginners who are here looking for advice. We need to be firm in our positions that this kind of practice is not the norm.


Yes you're right...we need to be firm in our position that it's not the norm, except in situations where it may be necessary.


rendog


Jan 13, 2007, 1:37 PM
Post #281 of 281 (821 views)
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Registered: Jun 29, 2002
Posts: 2456

Re: [fanederhand] Poll on chipping [In reply to] Can't Post

[quote "fanederhand"]DXXX no to all of the above.[/quote]


word


and if i see someone chipping I will hurl rocks at them until they fall, run up cut the rope then drive their chisel into the heart[mad]

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