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Climbing Sections:

About Nelion:

Nelion is the second highest peak on Mt. Kenya, at 5,188m/17,021'. The highest peak is Batian, at 5,199m/17,058'. The Normal Route up Nelion (5.7) followed by traversing across the Gate of the Mists to Batian is the easiest way to the summit of Batian. There is a shelter on the top of Nelion that has a padded floor and is supposedly warm enough in the summer (December/January) that you can bivvy in it with just a warm (0F) sleeping bag. In the summer, a 0F sleeping bag should be warm enough for the rest of the climb too. Two layers of pants/long underwear are definitely necessary, along with a bunch of layers on top, and a hat and gloves. The climb can be done in running shoes and warm socks. Note: Ballie's Bivvy, part way up the climb, is not really usable except perhaps in case of emergency. The door doesn't close completely, and it is filled with ice.
Nearest town or city: Mount Kenya / Nanyuki
Directions: The base camp for climbing the Normal Route up Nelion is Austrian Hut. It can be approached from any of the three main routes up the mountain: the Naru Moru Route, the Chogoria Route, and the Sirimon Route. The Sirimon and the Chogoria Routes are the most beautiful. The Chogoria Route is longer, which is nice because it gives you a longer time to acclimitize. The traverse across the Lewis Glacier to the base of Nelion requires crampons and an ice axe, although lightweight aluminum crampons are sufficient. Guides and porters can be arranged at any of the entrances of the routes. Jeep rides on the Chogoria and Sirimon Routes can be arranged which take you to the park gate (~$60). Getting to the trailheads from Nairobi is very easy. Busses and mini-busses (matatus) leave from Nairobi every day. It should only cost a couple of dollars (~300 KSH) to get to either Chogoria or Nanyuki.
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Camping: Yes
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