Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Iain Allan and Chris Wilson
Full set of cams up to #3 or #4. Some nuts if you like. Fixed bolts/pitons or slings on all belays. Several 48 in slings to reduce rope drag.
Obvious gully comes down from the top of the cliff, just to the right of the "nose" or center of the Main Wall. Route heads more or less straight up and tops out through this gully. Route goes just to the right of the "clean" face (High Noon route) and starts to the left of a gray pillar (see photo and/or MCK Guide to Hells Gate). P1: Climb crack until forced to move right and continue up to belay with 1 bolt and 1 piton and some slings (approx 100 ft). P2: Start out straight up and slightly right through the bushes (going left looks cleaner but holds run out in 15 ft). Head up easiest, most direct route to sling belay just below overhang. P2 and P3 from Iain Allan's MCK Guide can be combined. Only seems like 140 ft or so. P3: Crux off belay. Move 2-3 meters left and work your way through the overhangs, leaving long 48 in sling for move back right and up through the gully. Belay from tree on top (no fixed gear).
Beware of rockfall on route, though it is better than other routes on Main Wall. Definitely wear a helmet.
From the top, walk to climbers left until you see the outhouses of the camp site below on the left and descend a steep cliff to there. Alternatively, walk to climbers right around the edge of the cliff and descend towards the flower greenhouses in the di
Submitted by: heinricharrier on 2010-05-15
Route ID: 104803
Fun route. Loose but better than most Main Wall routes. Partner was not able to get through the crux on the last pitch so had to lower her to the belay, pull the rope up, and rappel down to here from the top. Left gear on top but recovered later by walking around. Removed Simon's (resident guide) bail sling to the left off the belay at the top of pitch 1 (he went the wrong way - should have gone straight up instead of left). Added the biner to the slings on the belay at top of P1 and returned sling to him.
Wear a helmet and expect to walk off. Can only rappel the route with 70m rope without leaving gear. Even with 70m, must leave gear after the top of Pitch 2.