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Routes : Africa : Kenya : Western : Sangalo Rocks : Kidogo Kidogo

Kidogo Kidogo - 5.9 A1

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Ian McHenry (FFA Marshall Burke)
Rock (Trad) Aid
Doubles from #2-#5. Some 0.4-1 cams for first 30 ft. Big bro #4 or #5 for squeeze chimney.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. This boulder is split in two with another project crack in the narrows of the split. Crack starts with small finger crack, then moves diagonally up right as crack widens to fist and bigger than fist size and overhangs slightly. This section was clean aided pulling on #3 and #4 cams on FA. Crack straightens at nice, sling-able flake and continues up and widens for 15 ft (#4 and #5 cams). Then, turns into tiny squeeze chimney (approx 18 in wide) that has a tiny knob you can sling half way up, but would be better with a #4 or #5 Big Bro. Chimney is approximately 20 ft before topping out. Single bolt with rap ring. Also, a decent chock stone that can be slinged to rappel onto project route. Bolt is Fixe Hardware 3/8" x 3", but 1cm of threads still showing. Should be plenty solid but could be replaced if the route ever gets serious traffic. Route sent free by Marshall Burke at 5.10b

Descent Options:

Rappel from single bolt and rap ring or sling chockstone and rappel face.

Submitted by: heinricharrier on 2010-05-15
Last Modified: 2010-07-13
Views: 901
Route ID: 104804

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: heinricharrier on 2010-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Second Free Ascent

Marshall Burke was able to send the crux overhanging, diagonal fist crack free at 5.10b and I followed. Route felt even better free, though doubles are definitely needed for #2-#4, with only one #5 that you can walk up above the flake until the chimney.

This is a legitimately excellent crack climb, not just by Western Kenya standards.

Added: 2010-07-12