Rating: 5.10a/b R
PITCH 1: 190 feet: 5.9. Fun, but scary, and somewhat dangerous. Climbing up the face of the prominent prow, head for the occasional 15' high flakes every now and then to set some questionable pro. Be VERY careful for the first 150 feet; the rock is loose and peels away easily. Luckily, it's only 5.8-ish in this area, and 5.9 on the questionable flakes, with one possible 5.10a move. Move left near the end, up the large prominant flake the last 20 feet to a great anchor position where the light yellowish rock starts (and you could, in theory, continue up and left to a large roof). Rock quality is much better from now on.
PITCH 2: 60 feet: 5.8R. Scary/exposed. Move out right from the anchor about 20 feet to a large vertical flake that sounds a little hollow when you tap it. It's actually a slightly disconnected slab, and you could bear hug it on either side, but the left side is easiest. Pro behind this is easy to get in, but questionable as you never know if the whole thing is going to peel off. But it climbed OK for both of us. When you get to the top of that (~ 20 feet), move out on a traverse to the right for about another 20 feet, climb around a person-sized block, and set your anchor. Or at least we did. I set 5 pieces for the anchor under the multiple disconnected vertical blocks. Is it a safe anchor if the follower takes a swing? Very questionable. This would be a great place for some bolts. But we didn't have any. Pitons will NOT work here. You might want to continue on about 30 more feet and up the finger crack to set better pro and a hanging belay.
PITCH 3: 90 feet: 5.10a/b R (but only run out slightly at the beginning/easier climbing). Exposed. Continue traversing to the right, watch loose little micro flakes (which is all you're holding on to) and set some very questionable small cams (like the smallest thing Camalot makes). Find religion. Then a 5.9 move or two up to a sweet finger crack that that takes pro very well. Up that for about 20 feet, over to the right, and take a breather on the ledge. Itís OK to lose your religion at this point. Above you is a slightly arching, slightly off 25 foot vertical crescent dihedral of fingers, hands, and liebacking. VERY sweet. A little tough about 3/4 of the way up (10b?) but eats up pro well. Pull over the top block, and set your anchor.
PITCH 4: 120 feet: 5.4. We headed up the right and it was a fun, fast, climb with good pro. We had also scoped out going up to the left and squeezing up through the chimney that arches out to the left, then planning on traversing right. But there's no place for pro unless you bring a big bro, and it would be a serious (X?) leader fall, so I backed down it.
Overall, the route is stellar, barring a) the first 150 feet where the rock is loose and b) the second anchor. Remove those issues, and it's a fantastic climb. Very exposed, as you do some slightly run out traverses on questionable pro and a bad anchor 200+ feet off the deck.
Submitted by: kzemach on 2003-08-25
Route ID: 39568