Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Geoff Evatt and Brian Rossa
Usually very good. Excellent belay stances.
A fun, safe and worthwhile climb giving an excellent introduction to Chattru and the surrounding peaks. The protection is usually very good and the belays are always excellent. The climb takes in a mixture of climbing styles, adding to a distinct feel of adventure. The climb described here is to the first of the three pyramid structures (around 4100m), on the right hand ridge of the main peak (third pyramid), 4600m. From the valley floor, the entire day should take around 10h, including a 1.5 hour walk in. From the top of this pyramid, a route to the summit of the main peak is revealed…
The peak lies on the southern side of the river to the Chattru settlement, and is obvious from its huge diamond shaped slab leading up to half-way. The walk in follows the grassy bank directly to the right of the peak, and takes you straight up to the slabby looking third pyramid on the far right of the peak, at mid-height. As one gets nearer the slab, one is forced to look for a more plausible route the other side of the pyramid. Around the back some grassy ramps lead upwards. The main ramp is reasonably clear, rising behind a peculiar ladder-esque rock formation of metre-wide cracks in a lower slab. The climb begins just behind this ladder on the grassy ramp, where one has a good view of the zigzagging nature of the climb till the start of P6.
P1: 25m. Climb the broken vertical rocks from the grassy ramp, which begins directly behind the obvious ‘ladder’, VI-. Climb up to a visible wide gassy ledge. The pitch is reasonably strenuous with good protection the whole way.
P2: 50m. Scramble diagonally rightwards along a grassy slope to a hanging belay.
P3: 30m. Traverse left and slightly upwards along thin ledges to a very solid belay in a small cave. This cave lies about 25m directly above the end of the first pitch. Protection is poor and the climbing is exposed although not too difficult, VI-.
P4: 15m. Exit the cave up the obvious diagonal right-leading ramp, IV-, in which your whole body fits! If you get to the end of the crack then you have gone about 5m too far. Belay from a good narrow crack where one has a view of the beginning of the next ‘boulder’ pitch.
P5: 20m. The boulder pitch. From the belay swing out left in a technical and pumpy fashion over the overhanging lip of the ramp, VI+, and onto an exposed slab, V+. As soon as you have moved onto the slab the top of the pitch should be clear as it is a couple of meters below the top of the skyline.
P6: 50m. Move together upwards over easy terrain to the beginning of the large obvious slab. Enjoy the view of the valley!
P7: 60m. A large, moderately angled slab leading to an obvious overhang, IV-. Only a couple of pieces of protection low down, but the climbing is relatively straight forward.
P8: 30m Move left out of the overhang and climb up the obvious chimney, 8m VI. The chimney is strenuous and overhanging at the top, yet it is excellent fun with good protection the whole way up. Once at the top move for a few metres over the grass until an obvious crack leading vertically upwards to the summit is revealed. Climb this for 10m, IV+, to the grassy summit area.
P9: 40m. Move together over grass and broken rock to the peak which has plenty of room for a magnificent and well-earned picnic
Descent: Rappel back down the way you came, bring plenty of tat. If you only have a 60m rope, then at the top of the main 60m slab one has to rappel straight down the face via narrow gullies, certainly possible. It may also be possible to descend via a st
Submitted by: DrGeoff on 2008-08-26
Route ID: 95594