SIAPA BERANI 5.10 (80 m, 4 pitch) Pro:Bolts and threads, carry slings and 12 quickdraws.
Climb starts in the middle of the smooth alcove just right of the chimney on the left side of the cliff.
Pitch 1. (35m 6a/b) Straight up the wall to bolt. (Possible thread for timid.) Step left to arete then up to overhang (bolt.) Surmount this on left to large root (sling). Move right and up to another steepening. (2 bolts and possible thread). Surmount this on the right to ledge (slings). Continue up open chimney with threads and 1 possible small wire to belay on small ledge and tree. (No fixed belay.)
Pitch 2 (20m 6a) Continue up chimney easily (slings on roots) until it closes (sling). Step right with difficulty to ledge. Continue up (sling) then step right to belay on small ledge (bolt and sling).
Pitch 3 (15m 6a/b) Move slightly down and right along branch then make difficult traverse to gain chimney continuation. Continue up this to belay on bolt and thread in a small alcove at the base of larger one.
Current Pitch 4 (15m 5b) Move up through alcove then climb the loose face to the top. Move left to large tree and hopefully fixed slings.
Intended Pitch 4 (10m 5c?) Gain the wall directly above the belay and up to the abseil tree at top. (Slings).
Submitted by: pendaki.jompo on 2004-12-15
Route ID: 62574