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Nanryou Kanagawa Route - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Mixed - mostly trad with bolted stations and occasional good bolt when needed. Take a rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1). Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts). 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

Descent Options:

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Submitted by: technogeekery on 2009-09-07
Views: 512
Route ID: 101586

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: technogeekery on 2009-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Followed all but the last pitch

Classic old-school climb high up over the valley and following the obvious line of weaknesses. Rock a little variable, but fine where it counts. Mostly trad placements, but with one bolted belay station and 3 or 4 bolts where it is hard to find pro. Great views & positions. I'd be happy to lead all pitches, but the 5.8 squeeze chimney would be a bit exciting as no pro inside for 6-7m, and its hard if you don't have good technique (I don't...)

Added: 2009-09-11