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Routes : Asia : Japan : Shikoku : Yoshida Dam, Shodoshima Island, Kagawa

Yoshida Dam, Shodoshima Island, Kagawa

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About Yoshida Dam, Shodoshima Island, Kagawa:

A medium sized granite area with currently over 100 routes, and more being added. There are some crack climbs, but most of the routes are bolted slab climbs combining friction and face technique. There is a huge amount of rock in this area, lots of potential. Grades seem to be a little bit stiff. People have been climbing here for a long time but in the fall of 2000 an Osaka climber embarked on an ambition program of new route development. He is responsible for some 70 routes. Summer is really too hot with fall and spring being the best season. Winter is climbable in the sun but the shade is a bit chilly.
Nearest town or city: Takamastu
Directions: First you have to get to Shodoshima island which involves taking a ferry from Takamatsu, Okayama or Himeji. Once on the island head for the Northeast corner of the island. You can't miss the dam and when you see it, head up the road on the north side of the river. There is a campground here and a small onsen. Park at the campground(small fee) and hike up the road a few minutes to the climbs. The onsen opens at 3pm and is highly recommended. There is a large route map, a sign in book, and the manager has a small topo guide book. The bath is welcome as the cliffs can get you a bit dirty. The area is a little like the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish and the vegetation reminds one of Yosemite, but the smell and sight of the sea is pure Japan.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Year

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