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Go Deok Gil - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This route is on Insubong, in Bukhansan National Park. It's a nice route that circles around the "Vader Helmet" and to the summit. Although we climbed it with nuts and hexes, I would definitely bring cams size 1-3 (Black Diamond) if you have them. Most of the cracks on this route were fist size and smaller, so be your own judge on size needed. Although there are a few bolts on this route, it's mostly unbolted. Bring a variety of slings because there are trees all along this route. There are anchors at the end of every pitch except the 5th pitch, there are just two bolts on that one. There are slings wrapped around a rock with a ring as an anchor, but it looks a little sketchy. The route can be hard to follow inbetween pitches. The first pitch starts by following the main slab to the right and up, and walk until you can't go any farther. You'll see a sign that says danger falling rock and the start is on past it. There will be some trees and cracks going up and to the right. There are no bolts to be seen from the start. Sling off trees if you need to, but its not too bad. You'll level out some, then see a slab with multiple cracks going up. Follow those up and right past that you should see the first bolt to your right on the side of a rock. The anchor is just past that a little ways. Once at the top of that pitch, you'll cross over a rock and go down just a little. You should see a nice path to follow up that has what looks like steps and a crack to follow. Again, there are no bolts, but the anchor is up and to the right, near a tree. After that anchor, you'll see a canyon, go through it all the way and follow a fairly worn trail around until you can't follow it anymore. Then you'll climb up the rock through trees, up and to your right until you get to a semi-flat spot and you'll anchor to trees. You'll know you hit the right spot if you look up and to your left and see a path to walk on. Follow that path and it will lead you to a slab with two nice cracks in it. Again, no bolts, and the Koreans just run it out, but at the top and to the left is the anchor. Once up that, you'll follow the path and it will lead you to right underneath the nose of the "Vader Helmet" Look up and to the right of the helmet and you'll see a hole formed by the rocks. No bolts, climb up and through the hole to see the anchor bolts to your left. The Koreans told us the route ended there, but if you squeeze through the crack you'll see a bolt on the right rock face. That is the only bolt, and I highly recommend not climbing up without cams unless you're confident you can make it. There is a crack, but its hard to layback on it. If you do climb it, follow the crack all the way up and you'll see the anchor at the end of the crack. From there its just walking up to the top!

Descent Options:

Rap down the route you followed, but be careful not to get the rope stuck in cracks

Submitted by: worldclimber323 on 2013-05-27
Views: 419
Route ID: 113835

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: worldclimber323 on 2013-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Go Deok Gil Ascent

Hard to find and tricky to follow, Koreans were very helpful in pointing us in the right direction though

Added: 2013-05-27