Skip to Content

Routes : Asia : Malaysia : Sarawak : Fairy Cave : Batman Wall : Kapur Chimney

Kapur Chimney - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
John Norman, July 1999
Rock (Sport)
G
12 bolts
85
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

A classic climb with a tricky start. Original line was extended by Glenn and Alex in 2009.

Submitted by: sundog on 2008-01-29
Last Modified: 2013-05-31
Views: 916
Route ID: 91963

Most Recent Photos (See all 8 photos)

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: borneo4x4 on 2010-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars what a feeling...

as i inch my climbing grades, it came a time when i had to attempt one of Batman wall's signature routes. i managed to red point it after several attempts. the climb is long and it gets very pumpy. there are several starts to this climb and the start described by alexholke is called a 'sissy' start. then there is the real man's start where climbers just power up from the starting bolt- making it a crux move!

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: MohamadNoh on 2010-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Kapur Chimney extension

long climb for 6b+ but lot of rest point.

Added: 2010-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: alexhoelke on 2007-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Real Man Start an extension

From the staring bolt move up and left towards the cave to a left sidepull with a right toe hook to clip the second bolt. You can stay left and move up the cave then traverse right. Alternatively after clipping the 2nd bolt, you can move back down and traverse right on sharp rock and bad feet. This is harder (5.11a) and referred to as the Real Man Start.
From the 3rd bolt is is real fun, up the chimney and out left up the wall to the original anchor. You can now climb up the 20ft extension for a bit more of a pump.

Added: 2009-06-05