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Fists of Fairy - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Chi'en Lee & Glenn McNair 2005
Rock (Sport)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


From the stairway the leader "Batman Starts" to the first bolt on top of the cave entrance. The second will need to prusik or jumar up the rope by himself! Pitch1-5.10c: Awkward first move, then up and right diagonal, then up again (crux) to the belay station (hanging belay). Pitch2-5.11a: Straigt up then move right (crux) and further up (pumpy) to a ledge with a belay station. Pitch3-5.11b: Step up left on the big block (it moves!) to clip the first bolt. Then climb up through a technical crux and mantle to a big ledge (optional belay station). Easy climbing up to the right gets you to base of Nepenthes Wall with a double-bolt belay/abseil station.

Descent Options:

- abseil down to the big ledge, then down the wall - walk down through Fairy Cave (see also Nephthens Wall)

Submitted by: alexhoelke on 2009-06-19
Last Modified: 2010-03-01
Views: 451
Route ID: 100463

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: alexhoelke on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice

Now led all the pitches - even though today pitches 2 and 3 were wet. Stiff for the grade.

Added: 2011-09-03