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"Tourist" Route - 5.7

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Trad route: bring a moderate rack of medium to large cams & a couple of medium stoppers or small hex
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Description: No tourist in his/her right mind woud even consider this. Although there are two 5.7 moves, much of the route is 2nd and 3rd class. Start on the north side and traverse around the left side of the tower across a steeply sloping ledge of loose scree. I recommend tethering to the fixed line. A friend was saved by doing so. Follow this and some additional crappy bolts around to the south side and up into the base of the chimney. You are now directly above Goddard's Crack. You'll notice some belay/rappel slings here. Belay the first technical pitch here (5.7+ into the notch). Continue or belay again from the notch. Climb the pedestal on the left wall above the notch to a point were you can stretch a foot across to the opposite wall and step across. A small hex or medium stopper on the left wall gives inadequate but psychologically appreciated protection for this extremely exposed 5.7 move. Continue up the wall, moving left of the huge perched chockstone and then into the notch between the two summits. Take note of the location of rappel slings here (two bolts and some nasty-looking chockstones). The summit register is buried in some cracks on the east summit. Descent: Rappel directly down the south side of the chimney to the belay/rappel station at the top of Goddard's Crack. From here you can either follow the traverse back around the way you came, or rig new rappel slings (and/or use the ugly old bolts on the face above the crack) and rappel directly down Goddard's Crack. The east and north sides can also be rappelled, but make sure you're familiar with whatever side you descide to descend.

Submitted by: mudmaster on 2006-02-09
Views: 646
Route ID: 74107