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Standard Rack plus 000 BD Camelot
Tower with prominent arete to east of Shady Crag. Pitch 1 begins at left-facing corner with crack system. Easy climbing with some loose rock. Climb follows the cracks system with occasional face climbing until small roof leads to a large ledge. Belay at anchors on ledge or up and left to a belay station on the face. Pitch 2. Follow dike system up and left through gully system. Several bolts and small gear with good rests. Bolt at top is in rotten rock so protect with #1 four-cam or equivalent. Bolt anchors at the top. Pitch 3 (Stairway to heaven). Traverse up large ramp and go around the corner to the left. Use long sling at the start of a steep ramp. Ascend ramp. At the top of the ramp use 000 camelot in a slotted crack. Bolt high and right is useable but in sketchy rock. Use feet to get as high as possible and climb up and right out on overhanging face. Go straight up face to belay anchors. Pitch 4. Go past two bolts up face (stay left), once past the face follow the ridgeline up past good pro and occasional bolts to the summit.
Rap down the south side 20m to ridge. Descend the rocky gully.
Submitted by: kristjdc on 2011-02-14
Route ID: 107906