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Fear of Flying - 5.11a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Consensus Ratings
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  Scenery (Not Rated)
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Route goes straight out the largest roof in this 'grand auditorium area'. We climbed a pedestal (40-60' or so) to gain a belay spot on the short wall below the roof. up some cracks to gain the start of an obvious hand/fist crack going out about 10' to the lip. With hands and feet jammed in the crack, move out upside down to the lip, get in a piece (I think its about a 3 friend - I did it with an old chouinard hexcentric!), and go for it. Pull the lip, and move up maybe 40' or so to an obvious ledge. A great climb, and maybe the most obvious great feature in the GA. On the redder of the two photos on display for 'grand auditorium' when i viewed this site (april 2005), the line is pretty much straight up, wiht the large roof at about halfway up the photo vertically, and horizontally, about 2/3 of the photo is to the left of the roof, 1/3 on the right. Rating is a best guess.
A better photo of the route is available here along with lots of information about long dong. On this photo, the route goes up from the "a" in "5 Claws". After climbing with Taiwanese climbers in 1986-87 at Long Dong a few times, I was told by them that my ascent was a FFA when I did the route with a Taiwanese climber, whose name I cannot recall, sadly. There were many other routes established by those guys (and girls) in the late 80s, it's a shame they haven't made it onto your site. I had a few other first free ascents, future blues roof, womb roof, but they don't appear on the photos, so I'll leave them off. It is soft rock, and can be loose, sometimes scary, but that makes it fun for anyone ready to trad climb!

Submitted by: dautcher on 2005-04-21
Views: 351
Route ID: 65882