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In and Out of the Groove - 5.11d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
Bolts, about 10 (?) plus anchors
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Start at the base of the chimney and climb the face to a thin, reachy crux. Continue past a flake system and a platform to the overhanging, steep jug haul. If climbed ONLY using the face (ie no stemming back in the chimney and no holds on the arete), the route is an 5.11+ (5.12a in the new guidebook). The crux is between the second and third bolts and is much more involved for climbers under 6ft. An attentive belay or a helmet here is a MUST -- a loose catch can send your climber's head into the wall behind them.

Descent Options:

Rap or lower from the anchor. Second to clean.

Submitted by: brinosaur on 2010-11-17
Views: 426
Route ID: 107286

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brinosaur on 2009-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route in this section

Technical climbing and a thin crux down low, steep hauling on giant flakes, hidden jugs, and chicken heads on top with one more crux before the anchors.
If you stem or use the holds found on the arete, it climbs at about 11a/b.

Added: 2010-11-17