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Oyster Blade - 5.10d

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Rock (Sport)
R
4
Stainless steel and titanium glue in bolts 4 120 cm slings
300
Consensus Ratings
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Description:

Tower rises out of ocean. Two summit points, accessible in same climbing day. Three pitches at base of tower on east face all have their own anchors, all lines join up before second anchor. Sharp rock, exposed climbing, short run out on third pitch. Epic climb with a chance to stand on top of a spire that is one meter in diameter, and have a picture taken from second summit, just 10 meters away. Starting Pitch to climbers left is cruxy with a layback just before first anchor. 5.10d. Possible standing belay at first anchor. 22 meters. The two other starts are 5.10b (middle) and 5.10a (right) and join up after first anchor. The .10d pitch has a new titanium bolt at the anchor (2005) and new threads (2008). Anchors for middle and right pitches are unknown. Second pitch when climbing the 5.10d left pitch for start: tricky, crimpy start. 20 foot factor 2 fall onto anchor possible. Once past first bolt, large, sharp holds. Very steep. 5.9. 20 meters. Hanging belay. Third Pitch: Flaring crack, small runout, transition onto face after 10 meters, sharp rock, small pockets, crimpers, edging. 5.9. 25 meters. hanging belay. Fourth Pitch: Up and right, very sharp rock. a few bolts... sling horns for added protection. At 4th anchor, you can climb 10 meters past anchor (no protection) to summit of spire. Top of spire can be protected with 120 cm sling. Belay second from here. You can down climb to rap anchor from top of spire. Second option is to belay second from 4th anchor, and traverse 5 meters to left to back face of tower to rap anchor. 20 meters to anchor, 5.9. 10 meters past anchor to spire, 5.10b. From rap anchor you can climb to either summit, belay from rap anchor but no protection above rap anchor.

Descent Options:

It is possible to descend the face you just climbed, but the rock is like velcro and it is often windy. Getting a rope stuck here is easy, and would suck. It takes 4 raps with one 60 meter rope. There is a rap anchor about 20 meters to climbers right o

Submitted by: rtwilli4 on 2008-06-16
Views: 396
Route ID: 94237