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Wacky Weed - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
5 bolts, 2 threads
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.60/5
  Rock Quality 3.40/5
  Scenery 3.80/5
  Fun Factor 3.20/5

Description:

Nice overhanging start to a slopey crux 3/4 of the way up.

Submitted by: nthusiastj on 2004-03-10
Views: 623
Route ID: 49873

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clr288 on 2012-02-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Underrated

Agree with reviewers and Wee's book...now a 6b...probably a 10b or a 10c. Overhanging start (10b) leads to crux after 3rd bolt. Some stemming and some power moves with your right arm with a somewhat hidden pocket allow you to get over a mini roof for the 4th bolt. Top is much thinner but positive angle. Great view at the top.

Added: 2012-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexhoelke on 2010-09-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars tricky

Definitely under rated, it is now graded 6b in Wee's guide. Tricky stemming and cranking on a small hold. But can be worked on as there is a good rest just below the crux.

Added: 2010-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: technogeekery on 2010-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tough climb

Grading is odd at Tonsai - this is well sandbagged at 6a, and is not a good beginner's lead as the start is overhung with a bad landing. The start is more intimidating than very hard - but the crux involved some pretty tricky stemming for me and would be harder for short people. A good 10b. Don't do it in the sun! Afternoon climb...

Added: 2010-08-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: elizaclimb on 2008-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars wacky weed

harder than graded

Added: 2008-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: elizaclimb on 2008-01-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Wacky Weed

wacky

Added: 2008-01-31

... Read all 8 ascent notes