5 pitches, over 300m. Approach from the hut or the car park (as we did). Follow the trail to the base of Bluff Mtn, then traverse around to the start of the climb. You should get a good view of the climb on the approach.
The second pitch traverses the bottom of the Phoenix 'wing' (obvious rock discolouratoin). The traverse is only grade 15, but exposed, and gets a few stars in the guidebook. My brother headed straight up the rib for the grade 18 variant finish. Mostly overhung but lots of holds for the final 2.5 pitches before easier ground to the top. You descend via a hiking trail. Route-finding is tricky, and summer would likely be too hot. We climbed in winter, it was still pretty warm and less daylight requires an early start. Adventurous and rewarding with only wedge-tails, goats, roos and fresh air for company.
Submitted by: ivar on 2004-05-25
Route ID: 53248