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Kicking Brass 50m 15 - 5.7

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Route sequence (left to right): 29
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3 bolts and standard rack
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A nice, long adventure with some thought-provoking pro. 1) 15m (3) Starts 10m R of Absentia. Up R-leading gully slinging two trees as pro, then climb directly up the easy slab to tree and ledge (natural belay in pockets). 2) 35m (crux) Many of the pockets take gear (mostly hexes), so take a full rack. Diagonally L off the belay to good wire before wide crack, then up to bulge. Go L to avoid the bulge and up to second bulge. Resist temptation to trend R up ramp - instead go L through bulge to pro. Directly up black rock to FH. From here the line is direct up the steep juggy wall passing a crucial #6 hex pocket and second FH. Once on the upper slab, clip the last FH and traverse 5m R along ledge to chains. Pitch 1: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen 1994, Pitch 2: Lee Skidmore, Philippa Newton 14/3/99

Submitted by: orangeoverhang on 2002-02-17
Views: 755
Route ID: 11909