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Out Of The Blue And Into The Black 80m 24 - 5.11c

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Route sequence (left to right): 2
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Standard rack plus RP's and long slings. Big balls would help.
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This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibro's E face. The start is marked by an archaic bolt at the base of a horizontal crack. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split 1) (22) Climb R-ward across the horizontal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance (optional belay), then up the vertical finger-crack to belay stance. 2) 15m (crux) This pitch traverses R with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner 5m above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves R-ward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Do not trust the knifeblade in the ear. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling. Technically this 15m section is only 22 but it gets two grades extra because you are in unprecedentedly scary country. Up the corner formed by the ear with SLCDs for the roof & small RP's for the corner. Steep, technical and wild climbing. You can traverse off and up to safety or do pitch 3. 3) (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl to the summit. Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss 1980

Submitted by: orangeoverhang on 2002-02-12
Views: 1016
Route ID: 12076