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Overexposed 120m 15 - 5.7

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Start about 10m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's E summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves. 1) 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and PR. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave. 2) 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner onto the very exposed wall. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L). Good holds but exposed. 3) 17m A difficult move out of the cave, moving up under the roof of the cave on the L out onto a point. On top of the cave easier ground, then traverse R above cave and around the corner and up to yet another small cave. 4) 17m A difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. 5) 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit. Les Wood, Donn Groom 30/7/66

Submitted by: orangeoverhang on 2002-02-12
Views: 551
Route ID: 12086