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Trojan 72m 13 - 5.6

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Route sequence (left to right): 4
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A stunning classic through some very imposing country. With retrobolts removed by concerned climbers, this is now restored to its original glory as a bold route, essentially the way it was originally done in the 60s. Note that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes! Starts top L of The Scrub and is marked T. 1) 14m (crux) Step out L from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Runout in top section. A selection of SLCDs including #4 or 5 are useful at top belay. 2) 14m Another bold pitch. Walk L across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 SLCD in slot) up into cave. There is a single FH with ring in the cave for the belay, but you may wish to step out of the cave (exposure!) and set an anchor up in the third pitch crack. 3) 15m Step out of cave and climb finger-crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far R of ledge (two 50m ropes) which provide an escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland. 4) 15m Climb the crack-corner to ledge. 5) 15m The original tackles the chimney. However, it is better to avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack to the L. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain. Les Wood, John Tillack 13/3/66

Submitted by: orangeoverhang on 2002-02-12
Views: 647
Route ID: 12078