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Sunburnt Buttress 184m 19 - 5.10b

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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SLCD’s 0 - 3, wires, 8 brackets, and helmets.
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Lots of rock, bolts, and air; a Lost Boys style adventure for the masses. Start as for Rock Garden (just left of Peeping Tom pillar on Shadow Glen). Bring SLCD’s 0 - 3, wires, 8 brackets, and helmets. Route gets sun until 3pm, hence the name! 1) 28m (18) Up Rock Garden for a few moves then climb wall on right past six BR's to U-bolt anchor. 2) 30m (15) Trend easily left across Rock Garden to FH. Keep climbing diagonally left past another three FH's and a BR, then run it out with marginal gear to small ledge and U-bolt anchor. 3) 25m (crux) Beware - lots of loose rock on this pitch. Lee copped a falling rock on his back on the first ascent. Straight up past three BR's then traverse directly left over rotting rock past one BR and two FH's to arrive safely on ledge and U-bolt anchor. You’ll want a confident second! 4) 36m (16) Start going left then up exposed headwall with improving rock quality past seven BR's to reach U-bolt anchor. 5) 45m (14) Finally some good rock. Trend slightly right past thin cracks heading for the dead tree up high. Five BR's and some assorted small cams will get you to a large vegetated ledge and big chain. 6) 20m (10) Easily up wall above to arrive at bushes and the north-east summit ridge. No protection on this pitch. Double ring belay. To descend: Rap down three pitches then rap straight down to gully and big tree. One more rap will get you on the ground. Leave 1.5 hours for descent. FFA Neil Monteith (led all), Lee Skidmore 19/03/2000

Submitted by: orangeoverhang on 2002-02-12
Views: 496
Route ID: 12072