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The Plenipotentiaray - 5.10b

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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gear to 3 inches, two 60meter ropes
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Seven pitches long Plenipotentiary ascends the obvious detached tower on the west face of the Acropolis. Pitch 1. Access the notch above the large gully on the south face of the tower. Climb broken steps bellow obvious slabs. 5.5 Pitch 2. Traverse left and gain ledge directly below slabs.5.7 Pitch 3. Climb up vertical step to gain slab. Traverse left across slab passing vertical cracks to gain second vertical step. Climb step to ramp and continue left to small ledge and exposed belay.(the pro on this pitch proved to be very spicy) 5.7 Pitch 4. Lay back around corner and fire up vertical hands to fingers crack (crux!) 5.10, Belay on top of large ledge. Pitch 5. Once on the large ledge you’ll find some circa 1980's bail gear. From hear traverse left 10 meters and set up anchor for the upper head wall. (5.4) Pitch 6/7. Climb vertical v-crack in one long or two short piches. At half way you can traverse right to a nice belay ledge or just continue up to a nice ledge at the base of a chimney. 5.9 Pitch 7. Climb chimney to top. 5.6. Rap off South side of tower in three rappels. Rap.1 40meters to base of notch Rap.2 50meters past over hanging chimney Rap3. 30meters back to your packs. Rap stations are 7mm cord around anchor blocks, placed Feb. 2004. You may want to back them up.

Submitted by: slavetogravity on 2004-03-18
Views: 303
Route ID: 50196