FA. February 25th, 2004. Aaron Kristiansen, Simon Wedel of BC Canada.
North of the north peak of Mt Geryon elev. 1507
As seen on the 1: 25,000 Du Cane topo. Map 4235 Pitch 1. Climb obvious chimney. (16) 60m
Pitch 2/3 .Scramble and Climb up the broken wall in two or three pitches until you reach the base of a large right angling vegetated gully. (13) 100m
From the base of the gully the climb goes up the wall staying between the large head wall on the left and the obvious detached pillar on the right.
Pitch 4 Go straight up to base of a small head wall following broken steps on sparse gear. (14) 50m
Pitch 5 traverse right avoiding head wall and follow steep crack to base of chimney (14) 40m
Pitch 6 Climb chimney to ledge, then step left following steep crack on arete. Belay on ledge below corner.(16)
Pitch 7 Climb corner to chimney, climb chimney then traverse left up steep face to summit. (15) 50m
Follow the Mt Geryon summit traverse trail to the top of the north peak. Follow Rappel route down the west face.