Cool route... goes at 5.10+ A1 or middling 5.12 if you free the roof. The roof has only been freed by four people in the world: Nyrie Dodd, HB, Jill McLeod, and Lynn Hill, but, if it were located in Utah it would have been freed by many many more by now - not that hard, just hand-size dependant. Of course, this is coming from someone who aided it unabashedly.
P1: 50m of pseudo-offwidth (there are tons of face holds in the crack). The crux is right off the deck... it overhangs for about 20m before finally easing back and tightening up. Belay on rampy stance.
P2: Sweet climbing along weird flakes out right, then back left, then up to the roof. Commence aiding of the 25' (6m) splitter and shoot lots of photos. Plus, the lip of the roof is one meter lower than the start... Damn!
P3: if you absolutely HAVE to summit, go for it... but it sucks. Some cool climbing for 10 m or so, then traverse right around a corner and up scary, fragile rock to the top. I recommend leaving an anchor of a few wires and doing a double rope rap to the ground instead.
So, if you did go to the top, you have many options to get off the thing... none of them are that good, but if you really want to know, email me and I'll send you the details of what worked best for us.
Submitted by: jsj42 on 2004-04-08
Route ID: 50806